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Berntsenbanden S 
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Berntsenbanden 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Oscar Berntsen
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on May 12, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Berntsenbanden

Description 

Start with Hovedegjengen (Step off the boulder across the gap, to the right of Eventyrblanding), and dispatch with the confidence building and straight-forward 5.11 to the ledge (tongue in cheek, here).

From the ledge, cast your gaze upwards, your future awaits through the territory covered by only 5 bolts in about 50 feet of climbing. Deadpoints, slopers, barndoors, and drop knees will aid you as you climb through several small overlaps and go up right (not left, as that is The Trip(13c) to a good stance below a big, slippery dihedral. Though not technically difficult, it is extremely easy to slip off and even easier to convince yourself you are slipping.

Clip the chains. You are part of the gang. The extension goes at 13b. How hard could that be....?

Location 

Same start as The Trip and Hovedegjengen. Step across the gap after stick-clipping the first or second bolt. This is the first set of routes to the right of Eventyrblanding.

Protection 

Bolts. Only 11 or so.


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