Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Snakeskin Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen T 
Blood Meridian S 
Caesar Salad S 
Mexican Gravy Leg S 
Rattler’s Arête S 
Snakeskin T 

Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: James Garret. 12/20/2000
Page Views: 1,025
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Nov 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
About to pull the roof on top of P2.

Description 

Something about preferring Bernese girls to rattlesnakes. This climb can be found on the east face of the Snakeskin Buttress. The start is in a recessed U-shaped Bowl. Look for a bolt at the start of the first pitch and a left facing dihedral above. This is a very fun climb for those who like old school style climbing. A few off-width moves and some physicality will get you through the second pitch. The last pitch requires some gumption to get started, make sure to get good pro before launching into it. We combined the first two pitches.

Pitch 1: Clip a bolt and climb up into a bowl like feature. Place some pro and pull through to the large ledge. The fixed anchor for this pitch is more a rap station than a belay. Belay here or continue up the next pitch for full value. 5.8, 15 Meters.

Pitch 2: Climb up the awesome left facing dihedral. End on a nice belay ledge with bolts. 5.9, 25 Meters.

Pitch 3: Continue up the dihedral past a steep spot above the belay. Then easier climbing to the top. 2 bolt belay. 5.9, 20 Meters.

Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors with one rope.

Protection 

One set of camming devices to 3 inch, one set TCU's, 1 set of nuts and slings. 60 Meter rope.


Comments on Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome rock! Found the bulge on P3 pretty stout!
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 20, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The Pitch 3 bulge felt like a sandbag at 5.9, but I've also got huge hands which made the #1 sized flaring jams feel very insecure. The crux protects great with a #.75 so it's perfectly safe, just kind of awkward. Run the first two pitches together for the best experience.