Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen
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About to pull the roof on top of P2.
Something about preferring Bernese girls to rattlesnakes. This climb can be found on the east face of the Snakeskin Buttress. The start is in a recessed U-shaped Bowl. Look for a bolt at the start of the first pitch and a left facing dihedral above. This is a very fun climb for those who like old school style climbing. A few off-width moves and some physicality will get you through the second pitch. The last pitch requires some gumption to get started, make sure to get good pro before launching into it. We combined the first two pitches.
Pitch 1: Clip a bolt and climb up into a bowl like feature. Place some pro and pull through to the large ledge. The fixed anchor for this pitch is more a rap station than a belay. Belay here or continue up the next pitch for full value. 5.8, 15 Meters.
Pitch 2: Climb up the awesome left facing dihedral. End on a nice belay ledge with bolts. 5.9, 25 Meters.
Pitch 3: Continue up the dihedral past a steep spot above the belay. Then easier climbing to the top. 2 bolt belay. 5.9, 20 Meters.
Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors with one rope.
One set of camming devices to 3 inch, one set TCU's, 1 set of nuts and slings. 60 Meter rope.
|Comments on Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Awesome rock! Found the bulge on P3 pretty stout!
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 20, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The Pitch 3 bulge felt like a sandbag at 5.9, but I've also got huge hands which made the #1 sized flaring jams feel very insecure. The crux protects great with a #.75 so it's perfectly safe, just kind of awkward. Run the first two pitches together for the best experience.