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Bernd Arnold Platte S 
Schildkrote S 

Bernd Arnold Platte 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kurt Albert, '81
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 18, 2015

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The rope is hanging through the anchor of Bernd Ar...

Description 

This is a slab in the classic sense, with insecure handholds and pitiful, uninspiring footholds. Surely there are more fun lines around, but if you want some breathtaking exposure and a fully-engaging experience, this line offers flawless rock on the upper headwall and unparalleled position.

Begin up easy, white, shattered stone, passing an old register on the way to the obvious two-foot roof. Get a good shake at the roof, and then make a big reach and a rock-over to gain the dark gray slab. A few easy moves along the diagonal crack give way to a sea of blue ripples and sloping horizontal seams. A crux thumbercling maneuver will get your attention, but the true key to the route is keeping your head together as you balance up the endless nothing toward the summit.

Location 

On the left end of the south-facing wall. There is a maze of linkups on this wall, so study the topo carefully.

Protection 

Around 11 bolts to a distant and hard to see anchor in the weeds.


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