REI Community
search
Advanced
Piz Ciavazes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Bergfuehrerweg"/ Route of the Guides. T 
Abram Arete T 
Big Micheluzzi T 
Buhl Direct T 
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 
Roberta83 S 
Schubert (Friendhip Route) T 
Via Irma T 
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 
Zeni Corner T 

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 725'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: A & T Gross, 1963
Season: Dry and warm.
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Dec 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This route climbs a line to the right of Rossi-Tomasi. The 5th pitch is the crux, rated at UIAA Gr. V A0, or alternatively UIAA Gr VI (5.9/5.9+). The first 3 leads are fairly easy climbing at 5.5-5.6; lead 4 is harder at 5.7-5.7+. The final pitches are mainly 5.6-5.7 climbing. This is one of the better "moderates" in the area.

Location 

Same approach and starting point as the Rossi-Tomasi route. The descent is also the same, except that this route is also an "Abseil Piste" for getting off the Gamsband. There are 3 anchors in place for descent using dual 50 meter ropes.

Protection 

Bolted and cemented piton belay anchors. Several "sanduhr" threads, several fixed pitons. Bring a normal Alpine rack and extra runners.


Comments on "Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rodger Raubach
Aug 10, 2015

This route may be followed on a rappel descent of the wall in less than perfect conditions. Two 165 foot ropes are required, and 4 abseils will bring one to the base of the wall. The upper anchor may be difficult to locate.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About