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"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 725'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: A & T Gross, 1963
Season: Dry and warm.
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Dec 3, 2013

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This route climbs a line to the right of Rossi-Tomasi. The 5th pitch is the crux, rated at UIAA Gr. V A0, or alternatively UIAA Gr VI (5.9/5.9+). The first 3 leads are fairly easy climbing at 5.5-5.6; lead 4 is harder at 5.7-5.7+. The final pitches are mainly 5.6-5.7 climbing. This is one of the better "moderates" in the area.


Same approach and starting point as the Rossi-Tomasi route. The descent is also the same, except that this route is also an "Abseil Piste" for getting off the Gamsband. There are 3 anchors in place for descent using dual 50 meter ropes.


Bolted and cemented piton belay anchors. Several "sanduhr" threads, several fixed pitons. Bring a normal Alpine rack and extra runners.

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By Rodger Raubach
Aug 10, 2015

This route may be followed on a rappel descent of the wall in less than perfect conditions. Two 165 foot ropes are required, and 4 abseils will bring one to the base of the wall. The upper anchor may be difficult to locate.

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