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Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Don Harder, Pat Timson, Jeff Vance, Ric LeDuc and Bruce Hildenbrand 4/78
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Oct 28, 2016

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another steep slab route on the Royal Arches apron with long runouts between bolts on small, sometimes friable edges.

Location 

About 200-300 feet uphill(north) of 1096 and just right of Move Like a Stud. Climb 25 feet up to a ledge and clip a bolt on its right edge. Make a 5.10 mantel move onto a sharp edge and clip the second bolt. The crux is 25 feet of thin climbing to a small pocket and a third bolt. The climbing eases a bit past two or three more bolts and the anchor.

A double rope rap reaches the ground.

Protection 

Five or six bolts to a two bolt anchor. The ASCA replaced the bolts on this climb in the mid-2000's. Thanks to Clint and Roger.


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