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Bent gate biner on bolt end draws
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Nov 27, 2012
So I was sorting gear this weekend and replacing some dogbones with the petzls that REI had on sale, and between random purchases including a few hoodwires I ended up with an extra 3-4 bent gate BD positrons and a wiregate or two along with a few dogbones I decided to make a few extra draws with a bent gate on the bolt end. I know the additional risk of the biner unclipping due to rotation, but this isn't really quantifiable. The BD bent gates also aren't as curved as some other bent gates.
Am I going to die? Or am I going to DIE?
redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
0 points
Nov 27, 2012
redlude97 wrote:
So I was sorting gear this weekend and replacing some dogbones with the petzls that REI had on sale, and between random purchases including a few hoodwires I ended up with an extra 3-4 bent gate BD positrons and a wiregate or two along with a few dogbones I decided to make a few extra draws with a bent gate on the bolt end. I know the additional risk of the biner unclipping due to rotation, but this isn't really quantifiable. The BD bent gates also aren't as curved as some other bent gates. Am I going to die? Or am I going to DIE?


I think you already know the answer to your question, but just to make sure, yes, you're going to die.
Ken Noyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,912 points
Nov 27, 2012
Crossing wrote:
The Petzl 2010 Catalog cautions against using bent gate biner as the bolt end:

They are warning against using a petzl string to lock the bolt end biner, which I only have the rope end. The bolt end biner is still free to move within the dogbone.
redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
0 points
Nov 27, 2012
dont think you'll die, but i also would try to not use them on bolts that will keep you from decking- the first three bolts, critical clips, etc, etc. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
1,495 points
Nov 27, 2012
John Wilder wrote:
dont think you'll die, but i also would try to not use them on bolts that will keep you from decking- the first three bolts, critical clips, etc, etc.

Yea was thinking of just saving them for the anchors when I setup a toprope since usually I wouldn't need to climb above them
redlude97
Joined Jun 21, 2010
0 points


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