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Bent Brain S 
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Bent Brain 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Randy Judycki & Brent Bain, 1992
Page Views: 1,457
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Gets tricky for just a second and then totally cru...


A quality warm-up to some of the harder lines at the cliff. Start left of Jensen's Jugs. A thin start leads to easier and enjoyable climbing above.


4 protection bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

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By Jan Roestel
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It looks like all of the rain this Winter has cause Bent Brain morph a bit. The large boulder wedged in the V-slot at the top is gone. Anyone know the story or timeline of its demise? Be alert, some of the rock just below the V-slot is still loose, held together only by the dirt and roots that are left.
Also, some flake exfoliation has occurred for one reason or another. There a number of other flakes that seem to be loose too.
REMINDER: Please let the rock dry thoroughly after rain!

The third bolt appears to be new (w/ Metolius hanger.) The old bolt hole should be patched.
By Richard Shore
Apr 11, 2011

Jan - the boulder fell off in a winter rainstorm around Feb. When it fell, it also took out the massive oak tree at the base of the wall. Did you notice this? The route is probably loose from the rockfall that occurred.
By Jan Roestel
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks Rich, I remember a "thanks for clearing the oak tree" comment and I assumed that the two events were related.
PS - The Fire Crags are what you make of them. I like the Crags for rope soloing and can get in 15+ laps in a less than two hours for training after work.
By Jackie Trejo
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Even with chipped foot holds at the start, it was extremely hard for a 5.8. And it didn't get any easier until after the third bolt. All the holds seem to have been worn away by the weather. I wouldn't call this a 5.8 anymore, unless it's just wicked sandbagged. Personally, hard climb for the grade for short and tall climbers.
By kfox Fox
Dec 18, 2014

On 12/17/14 I knocked off a microwave sized block from just climbers left of the anchor. I was able to pull it off with much less pressure than expected. This block usually has had a bunch of chalk on it! The block was just held in place with dirt. Most of the loose stuff is now gone. I didn't walk around below, or climb the route, to see of anything else below got knocked loose in the trundle.
By Larry Shaw 1
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2016

My favorite climb at the crag. Watch out for the area just left of the anchor, large chunks are loose and I wouldn't pull on anything left of the v slot.
By Randall Judycki
From: Austin, Texas
May 30, 2016

When I was still living in S.B I went to the Fire crags and noticed the tree down. Came back with a big saw and removed it, big tree, sorry to see it go. Yes, I will agree with all of you that climbs here have changed and the ratings are not accurate. However, what a view and easy access to climbing.

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