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Ben's route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Ben Priestly
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Billcoe on Jul 24, 2017

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Ok, I went looking for a shot of Tower, but all I ...

Description 

This route starts on the broken lower slope of the Tower and angles right via bolts and small cams for 120' or so. Ben asked for the first lead as he was raring to go, and I consented, that's why I call it Ben's route, cause he did a great job taking his time to make it better for those who follow. Knocking loose rocks off, pulling tufts of grass and general gardening as he went. The bolts are drilled into good rock.

It's main reason for it's addition here is to pitch it out to the young studs and studettes looking for a bold (relatively) new route adventure. We wanted a ground up adventure for us, you can do as you wish. You see, Ben and I were heading up to the obvious feature which splits the center left part of the face for 300 feet. That feature starts @ 100' up as a thin crack which turns into succession a hand then fist crack, offwidth, squeeze chimney then wide chimney. The wide chimney looks to be 6-8' wide when viewed from the top of P3 of Rapunzel, but from the ground looks like a squeeze chimney. Between Ben being a responsible new dad and busy with other things as well, and my bad shoulders (that is the combination fat, old age and shoulder surgery's on 5 tendons plus some other stuff in both shoulders which wasn't 100 percent successful that made this line a more interesting proposal to me) we didn't finish the best part which was what we were gunning for to begin with.

That is for you, gentle reader, to choose your own style if you wish to take it on. It will be a magnificent direct free route to access Rapunzels end of 4th pitch anchor. The P1 anchor is still a little short of the start of the crack, feel free to move it where ever you please. If you want me to head up and point out things, just invite me along and we'll get it done.

Protection 

bolts and small cams


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