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Benevolent 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ben Gilkison Prepared by Eric "Benevolent" Hirst
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Ben Gilkison on Jul 6, 2015

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Description 

Big thanks to Eric Hirst for bolting this big line and putting it on the open market. This route is the full extended version of Greedy. Climb to the first belay on Greedy (6 bolts or so). Climb Greedy (SO GOOD) and just keep on trucking, clipping very nice hardware as things get steeper and steeper. There are 2 discrete cruxes separated by a good rest. Clipping the anchor is kind of desperate if you don't nail the finishing sloper just right. To me, the last boulder problem felt V6/7 ish.

There is one block that I would be careful with. But I think you don't really have to touch it.

Location 

I'd recommend an 80 meter rope. But a 70 could work if you pull back into the wall to the first belay. An 80 just makes things easier I think.

Protection 

Bolts


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By Eric Hirst
Jul 7, 2015

Great job, Ben! Really happy to see this one go down. Not surprised the chains were hard to clip -- they were a blind guess at the time I put them in.

Good call belaying at the first Greedy anchor. I think that block is solid, but this keeps the belayer and rope out of the way in case anything does come off.

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