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Bending Nails 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: M. Hemmes & T. Eggen, 2002
Season: Faces North
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 16, 2010

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Description 

An OK route that provides an alternate place to link up Tier 2 to Tier 3 other than Finish Carpenter. This climb is worth doing once and can be anywhere between PG-13 and X rated, depending on how you opt to finish it.

From the slab belay on the middle of Tier Two, climb the 5.0 slab to reach a network of curving cracks and flakes that shatter the bottom of the more vertical wall. Start up, place some protection for a few meters, then dodge left into other cracks (and protection) or go up and right into a slightly scooped face on a clean slab (no protection) and up to the rap anchor on the starting ledge on the approach.

Location 

This route lies just left of Finish Carpenter. It is best started from the slab belay above the several Tier Two routes.

Protection 

A set of cams will protect the route where it is protectable. The right side alternate finish is 5.7+ slab and is unprotected with long ledge fall potential. The "X" on Bernard's S. St. Vrain book topo does not indicate the presence of a bolt, it is a notation of the protection rating. Specifically the lack there-of.


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