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Ben T 
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Willard T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Houser, Darryl Nakahira, Doug Ziesner, Todd Gordon & Ian Carter, November 1980
Page Views: 575
Submitted By: C Miller on Nov 29, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Pulling over the small roof leading to nothing spe...


The furthest left route on the west face, this climbs past a small roof (crux) down low to easier face moves above. The anchor is below the top of the rock, but one can easily climb past to the top of the rock.


4 bolts, anchors

Photos of Ben Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:  70's vintage Houser hangers. The top row shows ha...
70's vintage Houser hangers. The top row shows ha...
Rock Climbing Photo:  A 70's vintage Houser hanger with 1/4" x 1.2...
A 70's vintage Houser hanger with 1/4" x 1.2...

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By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 16, 2004

The anchor atop this route is the same as the pro; 2 smash-in type bolts. One of them is a spinner. The other looks solid. We found one sling with one end each tied to a respective bolt with a 3/8" welded ring. My partner retied the sling so each was a separate loop. If you plan to rap from these anchors you might want to take a couple of slings and some new rap rings. Of course, then your ropes (you'll need two) will end up in the giant prickly pear arrangement at the bottom.
By Bo Johnston
Mar 13, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'd say the crux is the edging to get up to the little roof. Pulling the roof wasn't so bad with a good undercling and a hold to the left to pull on. These bolts are not really cutting it. I think the innitials DPH were stamped on them. Oh, as for the rappel. I rapped to the right chain anchors atop Willard to get down. One rope for sure.
By Randy
Mar 14, 2005

These bolts (and hangers) are the original 1/4 inchers placed on the FA. The hangers were homemade aluminum jobs made by Dave Houser ("DPH"). These used to be found on all sorts of his routes in the Park, but have been mostly replaced over the years. The problem with these hangers is that they deform (as a result of falls) over time, until they break without warning.
By Bo Johnston
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Hey Randy, I kinda like seeing old bolts and finding out their history but in a fall... Anyhow, in the '92 publication, Ben is rated 10a on the Nomad page and 10b in the index of the book. Which one did you mean or what will it be in the new book?
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Dec 28, 2013

Still has buttonheads as of 2013. The anchor should be replaced as it is needed if you top out on any of the routes. a 70m does not reach the ground without traversing to other anchor.
By Joe De Luca
From: yucca valley
Oct 22, 2016

We just put new bolts on it today. Id's all good to go. If you have a 80m you can rap to the ground.
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Jan 18, 2017

Rappel length closer to 125 feet. A 70 will leave you several feet short of the big boulder at the beginning. Beware!

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