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Nancy's Thumb Tower
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Ben There, Dun That T 
Nancy's Thumb Tower (Regular Route) T 

Ben There, Dun That 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tim Lee, Keith Powell, Mary Jones, and Ben Burnham
Page Views: 1,794
Submitted By: Nick Kuhn on Dec 20, 2002

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Here's a photo I took of Tim Lee at the crux of &q...


This route is on the West face of Nancy's Thumb Tower, a 30'-high block on top of the East side of North Fin. Follow the only vertical crack up the right side of the face to the two-bolt chain anchors above. The climbing through the crack is easy, though airy as you glance to your right. The final moves near the bolt are awkward.


A 3-3.5 Friend and a handful of small to medium nuts or tricams. A quickdraw for the solitary bolt. Chain anchors on top.

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By Kenyon Kehl
Aug 15, 2003

If I'm not mistaken, the 5.4 Regular Route ascends Nancy's Thumb on the LEFT side of its west face, exactly opposite Nancy's Crack. You'll find no bolt, and the only pro, if necessary is a placement in a horizontal flake halfway up. The top 10 feet are on ledges in the left facing corner. This really is 5.4, and good for accessing the anchors to toprope Nancy's Crack.
By Vincent Greene
Apr 3, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The route described is actually "Ben there dun that", which was put up by Tim Lee, Keith Powell, Mary Jones, and Ben Burnham. I think the bolt-protected move near the top is a solid 5.8.
By Nick Kuhn
Apr 3, 2004

Thanks to Kenyon and Vincent for clarifying this route. E-beers are on me.
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The route name and description have been clarified for accuracy.

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