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Pine Cone Dome
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Don't Go T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Ben Dover 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 3,053
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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BETA PHOTO: Ben Dover.

Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>


This is a great face climb on edges, sidepulls, and knobs. At the left-center of the dome, locate the route about 30m right of the large, right-facing dihedral (Roof Bypass, #3).

Several mini-cruxes are possible by avoiding the flake on the right, but the difficulty is not increased. This is a really fun route--do it.


About 5-6 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos of Ben Dover Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kimberly on the thin holds of Ben Dover.
Kimberly on the thin holds of Ben Dover.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Anderson leading Ben Dover.
Ryan Anderson leading Ben Dover.
Rock Climbing Photo: This would be bend over looking from the road.
This would be bend over looking from the road.
Rock Climbing Photo: C. Love rocking Ben Dover while Ralphie climbs two...
C. Love rocking Ben Dover while Ralphie climbs two...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing.

Comments on Ben Dover Add Comment
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By Michael Heinrichs
Oct 19, 2003

If Ben Dover is climbed in shoes with a Five Ten rubber is that considered safe stealth?
By Larry Shaw
Jul 27, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun climb on edges and knobs. Forget about the flake thing on the right, no need to go there.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a fun slab climb. I do believe that if you use the flake on the right of the bolts and the left of the anchor it lowers the rating to a 5.9.
By Jeff Bryan
From: Cortez, co
Sep 10, 2008

The white line on the beta photo shows the way to climb the route. Don't get sucked left. It may pull you left but it is actually harder to get back on route. Stay with the bolt line.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route! Very sustained with few natural rests. Had to wander a bit from side to side to find the holds.
By L G
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2010

This felt much harder than 5.9 when leading straight up bolt line, which mentally exaggerated the somewhat lengthy spacing between bolts. The path of least resistance, and likely closer to the advertised rating of 9/9+, seemed to be mostly near the arete on the left after clipping bolt 2, followed by a bit of meandering up high.
By Kenny P
From: Woodland Park
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree, the route straight up (roughly following bolts, with the occasional moves left and right) would be a sand-bagged 5.9. I felt the climbing more along the 10a/b and felt fine just calling it "5.10".
If this grade is near one's max, it'd definitely provide some entertainment- perhaps.
Anyway, good route.
By pcrist13
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

If using the flake, be careful as it looks pretty thin. A tough smear intensive climb for me.
By cyclestupor
From: Woodland Park, Colorado
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route. This route is nearly vertical, and stays nearly vertical until the end. Fortunately, most of the route is nicely featured with great feet and decent crimps. A good route to practice route finding on. There seems to be many different possible lines on this route, but don't use the flake.

I give it a 5.10a. While a 5.9+ rating is conceivable, I found its difficulty to be similar to other 5.10a/b climbs in the area.

Beware: the first bolt is quite high off the ground (maybe 20ft), and you have to make a 5.9 move or two to get to it.

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