Below The Old New Place Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The right end. Not all routes shown. 18. PMS 19. ...
This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs, that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.
The cliff faces generally East like most WR crags, but the dihedral-ly nature of the cliff causes a bit more sun/shade variety than other nearby crags. The most northerly facing routes get shade a bit after 1pm, while some routes aren't fully shaded till after 3pm.
While the rock here is excellent, the crag is a bit short (~50-60 feet), and many of the climbs suffer from mud runoff, coating routes like Sardonic Smile
in a thick layer of dirt. Its easy to spot the dirty routes from the ground: they're the ones that look white or light gray.
This area first appeared in the original "Sport Climbing in New Mexico" book by Randal Jett and Matt Samet. The Below the Old New Place excerpt from that book can be found here
on the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.
Stolen from Jason H: From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place
". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines
and Inflight Movie
Weather station 4.9 miles from here
35 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Below The Old New Place
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Below The Old New Place
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Below The Old New Place:
P.M.S. 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Featured Route For Below The Old New Place
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a New Mexico
: Los Alamos & White Rock
: ... : Below The Old New Place
In my opinion, the best of the 12a's at BTONP. Not as long as some, but by far the most sustained. It's on from the first bolt to the anchor.Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwi...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 30, 2008
Ditto on the improvements to the approach trail and anchors - thanks!
To anyone looking to climb at Below the Old New Place: Please keep in mind that there are now "fixed" carabiners on several of the routes (Flesh Eating Gnats, Wailing Banshees, Monsterpiece Theater). Recently, somebody took the carabiners off the anchor chains on Flesh Eating Gnats! This happened sometime between April 15th and April 29th. Remember: carabiners on anchors are not booty! They have been generously donated to the crag to facilitate cleaning/lowering, so please leave them there. Thanks!