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Below The Old New Place

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 
Color of My Potion S 
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 
Greg Shredder T 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 
Inflight Movie S 
Instant Dogma S 
L Dopa T 
Little Shop Of Horrors S 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 
Manic Nirvana S 
Monsterpiece Theatre S 
Oscar de La Cholla T 
P.M.S. S 
Pathogenic Cysts S 
Polyester Terror T 
Putterman Cracks T 
Ralph's Dilemma T 
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 
Ralph's Revenge T 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 
Route 1 T 
Route 22 T 
Route 24 T 
Route 25 S 
Route 26 T 
Route 27 S 
Route 31 S 
Route 32 T 
Sardonic Smile S 
Scandanavian Airlines S 
Strong Urge to Fly S 
Wailing Banshees S 

Below The Old New Place Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.81897, -106.1871 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,206
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007  with updates from George Perkins
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BETA PHOTO: The right end. Not all routes shown. 18. PMS 19. ...


This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs, that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.

The cliff faces generally East like most WR crags, but the dihedral-ly nature of the cliff causes a bit more sun/shade variety than other nearby crags. The most northerly facing routes get shade a bit after 1pm, while some routes aren't fully shaded till after 3pm.

While the rock here is excellent, the crag is a bit short (~50-60 feet), and many of the climbs suffer from mud runoff, coating routes like Sardonic Smile in a thick layer of dirt. Its easy to spot the dirty routes from the ground: they're the ones that look white or light gray.

This area first appeared in the original "Sport Climbing in New Mexico" book by Randal Jett and Matt Samet. The Below the Old New Place excerpt from that book can be found here on the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

Getting There 

Stolen from Jason H: From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines and Inflight Movie.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.9 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Below The Old New Place

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Below The Old New Place:
Ralph's Revenge   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   
Ralph's Dilemma   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   
P.M.S.   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack)   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wailing Banshees   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 62'   
Flesh-Eating Gnats   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Pathogenic Cysts   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Monsterpiece Theatre   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Inflight Movie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Ralph's Leisure Suit   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Fat Boys Don't Fly   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Below The Old New Place

Featured Route For Below The Old New Place
Rock Climbing Photo: Tigger overly scared on this classic. No, its not ...

Ralph's Dilemma 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Below The Old New Place
Stem up the aesthetic open book under the big roof. RPs or other tiny nuts are helpful gear in sections. Just before you reach the roof, the crack widens to hand-size. Originally, at the roof, one would make a huge stem to the right with your own gear placements under the roof; turn the corner and a move later reach the anchors shared with Flesh-Eating Gnats. Now, many climbers just stop at the roof, clipping the anchors for Pathogenic Cysts to the right, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Below The Old New Place Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Left end of Below The old New Place.  Bolted r...
BETA PHOTO: The Left end of Below The old New Place. Bolted r...
Rock Climbing Photo:   (11) Ralph's Revenge 5.9    (12) Adam Ant (aka N...
BETA PHOTO: (11) Ralph's Revenge 5.9 (12) Adam Ant (aka N...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Halladay (green spiderman) going for the RP ...
Jason Halladay (green spiderman) going for the RP ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Center section of Below The Old New Place.  No...
BETA PHOTO: The Center section of Below The Old New Place. No...

Comments on Below The Old New Place Add Comment
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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 30, 2008
Ditto on the improvements to the approach trail and anchors - thanks!

To anyone looking to climb at Below the Old New Place: Please keep in mind that there are now "fixed" carabiners on several of the routes (Flesh Eating Gnats, Wailing Banshees, Monsterpiece Theater). Recently, somebody took the carabiners off the anchor chains on Flesh Eating Gnats! This happened sometime between April 15th and April 29th. Remember: carabiners on anchors are not booty! They have been generously donated to the crag to facilitate cleaning/lowering, so please leave them there. Thanks!

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