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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
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Between The Sheets T 
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Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
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Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
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Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
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Skid You Not T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
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Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,687
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 24, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Carol Kotchek leading Bellyflop; at the third bolt...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


Start as for Backflip, but climb the flake system immediately to the left. This initial flake can be protected with four medium-sized cams; the leader can scope out the required pro from the ground. Work left onto the slab and follow four bolts to the top. The climbing is delicate and sustained.

The two-bolt anchor is on a good ledge. The leader can bring up the second, or rappel/lower 95' back down. The leader should extend the anchor with a cordalette or long slings if they are going to rappel or lower and belay the second from the ground.

Bellyflop can be top-roped after leading the first 100' of Backflip (5.8+). One could also climb the gully right of Backflip to access the top anchor. Be sure to extend the anchor if you are going to top-rope.


Four gear placements (medium cams) and four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos of Bellyflop Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Carol Kotchek leading Bellyflop; moving right at t...
Carol Kotchek leading Bellyflop; moving right at t...

Comments on Bellyflop Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2003

...We got down with a single 60m rope with about 5 feet to spare.

If you lead Backflip, traverse over to the Bellyflop anchor, and then try to lower, I could see where a 60m rope wouldn't make it. A straight rappel down Bellyflop (or a lower after leading Bellyflop) is doable with one 60m rope.

A note on the pro: the leader in our group placed two medium wired nuts, a #2 Camalot, and a #1 Friend to protect the starting flake.
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Mar 22, 2004

I did this for the first time yesterday, great pitch. For some reason I had it in my head that it was 10a, you can imagine my dismay when passing the second bolt, I thought for sure I was off. I managed it, but was glad to see it's called 10c. I've heard people say it's harder since the first ascent, maybe somthing busted off. Still, a great pitch that's pretty sustained and fun.
By Brian Weinstein
Jul 2, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I thought the one-move crux was quite thin and warranted a 10d rating. High quality crack and face climbing. Nice route.
By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The bottom crack was great fun,, but I'd love to see Eli lead this in his approach shoes - I thought the top around the third bolt was very thin. Maybe something has changed over the years?
By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Sorry, Eli, I have realized my mistake there - I actually talked to someone who knew you and informed me of my stupidity... it was way hot when I tried this - my mountain boots would have edged better. I bet Sarah couldn't get up the thing! Peace.
By Nick Barczak
Jun 3, 2013

Didn't look to me (as of yesterday) that any holds had broken or crumbled. The crux sequence at the second bolt is tricky to figure out on-sight; but once you've got it figured out, it's not too hard.

However, I couldn't imagine leading this in approach shoes. I'll stick with my 5.10 Anasazis for now.

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