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Belligerent Buttress 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, 1994
Page Views: 1,051
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 4, 2001

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Description 

With the exception of a single, short trad crack the Belligerent Buttress is the easiest route on The Fang. It begins off a flake/block system on the right (West) end of the crag, facing North.

Difficulties begin immediately. A clip underneath an overhang launches the first hard move (5.12a) that simply gets you started on the route. Pull left, around, and over the lip of the overhang to catch some very thin face climbing above. Cruxes at 35 feet and 65 feet, both 5.12a/b, complete the climbing. Everything you need is close at hand, including a thin seam system near the top. Hang on, stay on your feet, and enjoy one of the best routes on The Fang.

Three stars for the great stone, the climbing moves, the continuity, and the fine bolting job.

Protection 

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 9-10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Mark Rolofson
May 11, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This was the first route that I established at the crag in September 1992. It was the first sport route on the crag, too. There are three hard sections. The start, pulling over the roof, & getting established on the face above is the first hard section (.12a). Then gain a great rest. The second obstacle ascends a steep slab with a seam up the right side of the prow (.12a). The crux is the finish up the overhanging prow (.12b). Fun route with relatively friendly holds. There are 9 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

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