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The Maiden
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belladonna T 
Cunning Stunt T 
Direct North Face T 
Dream Street Rose T 
East Ridge T 
Eye Of the Storm T 
Gates of Galas T,TR 
Hasta La Hueco S 
Kor-Dalke Route T 
Maiden Voyage S 
North Face T 
South Crack T 
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Southern Seas, The TR 
West Overhang T 
Unsorted Routes:

Belladonna 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: D. Light and J. Roberts, 05/99
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 661
Submitted By: dlight on Aug 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Belladonna in yellow.

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  • Description 

    More Deadly Nightshade than Stevie Nicks. This is a directissima on the South Face route. Start as for the South Face Route. Move up and right to a flake with a 2" crack, traverse 10' right, and surmount a bulge to better holds (5.9 R/X). Trend up and left in thin, incipient cracks and flakes into a left-facing, left-leaning corner which joins into the top of the second pitch of the South Face. It is sustained, pumpy, and hard to protect.

    Protection 

    Rack to 2". This route may be top roped from the anchor above pitch 2 on the South Face route.


    Comments on Belladonna Add Comment
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    By dlight
    Aug 18, 2012

    My friend Jack and I climbed together several times on the Maiden, we did some of the established routes, and we tried to pioneer a few of our own. This was perhaps our best contribution. We did a little cleaning on rappel and top roped the route before I made the first lead. Jack returned several years later and made the second lead with another partner. Although we climbed together many times, this was our only notable first ascent together. I am recording it now partly, so that I can see my name next to his but also because I believe that it is a suitable monument to his unbridled enthusiasm and boldness.
    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Aug 18, 2012

    RIP Jack. David, thanks for posting.

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