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Maroon Bells
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Bell Cord Couloir 
Maroon Ridge T 
Moron's Bells Traverse T 
Northeast Ridge T 

Bell Cord Couloir 

   
Type:  Alpine, Grade II
Original: Steep Snow [details]
FA: unknown, Albert Ellingwood, 1919?
Page Views: 5,729
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jun 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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At the notch between the Bells. Pyramid in the bac...

Description 

With incredible views, great conditions, two stellar summits, and 2,300 feet of climbing, this was one of my favorite climbs of the year.

Approach this classic snow/ice climb via the Maroon Bells TH and Crater Lake. Hike about a half mile past the lake to the talus runout below the couloir, then head straight up toward it. A cairn marks the cutoff point. Follow the right side of the runout and a faint trail past the obvious cliff/notch, and traverse in to the left to gain the snow. Climb over 2,000' of steepening snow/ice to the notch between the Maroon Bells and enjoy. The angle reaches about 55 degrees in the upper 1/3.

From the notch, follow the Maroon Ridge to South Maroon Peak (3rd-4th class) or North Maroon Peak (5.4ish) and descend one of the standard routes, or descend the couloir (carefully, with soft snow). Prime time to hit the Bell Cord is late May - June, depending on the year.

Protection 

An [axe] should be all you need for this.


Photos of Bell Cord Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the narrowest section.  Note all the rocks in t...
In the narrowest section. Note all the rocks in t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Downclimbing S.Maroon back into the Bell Cord Coul...
Downclimbing S.Maroon back into the Bell Cord Coul...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom cresting the summit of South Maroon.
Tom cresting the summit of South Maroon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking the express route from the top of Bell Cord...
Taking the express route from the top of Bell Cord...
Rock Climbing Photo: Snowmass and Capitol from near the top of S Maroon...
Snowmass and Capitol from near the top of S Maroon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hunter Bohn starting up the Bell chord. Crater Lak...
Hunter Bohn starting up the Bell chord. Crater Lak...
Rock Climbing Photo: On top of the summit cornice.
On top of the summit cornice.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bell Cord couloir in mid/late June, 2014. Big runn...
Bell Cord couloir in mid/late June, 2014. Big runn...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the upper section.  Compare to Dave L...
Looking down the upper section. Compare to Dave L...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the couloir from the lower portion.  Th...
Looking up the couloir from the lower portion. Th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Snowmass & Capitol from the summit of N. Maroon
Snowmass & Capitol from the summit of N. Maroon
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Andrews in upper Bell Cord.
Dave Andrews in upper Bell Cord.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise on the Bell Cord.
Sunrise on the Bell Cord.
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the yellow dots.
BETA PHOTO: Follow the yellow dots.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Andrews on the lower snowfield, Crater Lake i...
Dave Andrews on the lower snowfield, Crater Lake i...

Comments on Bell Cord Couloir Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2002

Originally read "pro: An ace should be all you need for this."

Pro: would that be that an ace of spades or clubs? Or does this refer to your partner? ;-)
By ClimbandMine
Nov 2, 2002

Doh. That would be an axe. Heh heh. I suppose you could use a club, too.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2003

Climbed this on 6/21/03. This is a great snow couloir and the best way to climb the Maroon Bells, in my opinion. Much better to climb them on snow than that horrible rock! There is plenty of snow right now, although it is only about 10' wide in the middle. There is a deep runnel in this section and the only place to climb is right up it. This couloir has severe rockfall danger, clearly evident from the large rocks you pass lying on top of the snow all the way up. It also softens very quickly as the sun hits it right at sunrise, even given the hard freeze the night before our ascent. I recommend a very early start (we left the car around 4AM, and topped out in the couloir by 8:30). After the climb in the parking lot we met to a guy who had taken a slushalanche ride down this couloir due to a late start several years ago. Fortunately everyone in his party survived.

Our trip report:
gibell.net/trip_reports/Maroon...
By Jeff Lord
Sep 22, 2005

My wife and I did this route on 6-19-05 and I would say that overall, this is an excellent climb. Be careful however, not to get forced down this route in warmer afternoon temperatures. We descended amid a perpetual barrage of falling rock and snow and felt fortunate to exit unscathed...poor planning on my part.
By Cory Cleveland
From: Missoula, MT
Jun 14, 2006

Climbed the Bell Cord and the traverse from S. Maroon to N. Maroon on 6/11/06. Conditions were ideal for the climb. We started at 3:30 am from campsite 11 at Crater Lake, and reached the top of the couloir at 6 am, right after sunrise. The early start made the couloir a relative no-brainer, as it removed the rockfall issues from the equation. I highly recommend an early (albiet painful) start.

The S-N ridge also seemed relatively straightforward, given the perfect weather and our luck with route-finding. We carried a rope, but everyone felt comfortable soloing the route. This point should speak to its difficulty in good, dry conditions; 4th class seems accurate under those circumstances. While the quality of the Bells in general is awful, the rock the spots that are usually rapped (from N. to S.) seemed surprisingly secure and the climbing was actually very fun.

As we had feared, the worst part of the trip was the descent. As George notes, the NE ridge of N. Maroon apparently sees very little early season traffic, and our enthusiasm for that option quickly faded. We opted for the NW ridge. It was long and tedious, but relatively easy. We passed most obstacles on the west, with only one obvious exception where the only way through was to the east.

Arriving at the Gunsight left us with a rap on somewhat spooky gear; there was a fixed pin at the top of the gully, but little else in the way of secure blocks or good gear placements. We used the pin as a backup, set up a rap line and downclimbed the still snow-filled Gunsight couloir on rappel. I would not want to do it when it was melted out though, as it gives new meaning to the word "choss." About 120' below the notch, the angle of the couloir eases and makes downclimbing more reasonable. We saw no other evidence of rappel anchors or obvious rappel anchor placements below the notch, but they may be available after snowmelt. Below the couloir the descent is fine, connecting up with the lower part of the NE ridge route.

A great way to climb both peaks, in spite of the loose rock and tedious descent.
By Andy Leach
From: Denver, CO
Jun 25, 2007

I climbed Bell Cord and did the traverse June 23, 2007. Conditions were ideal - the Cord was in nicely but the rest was dry. You can watch my video at andyintherockies.com/trip/66/M....
By Rick Blair
From: Denver
Jun 29, 2011

In this huge snow year, this was a loooong climb. We brought 2 axes, and I was glad to have them. We were able to mix it up plunging both shafts, then some daggering even traversing was nice, because you didn't have to switch hands. The large runnel in the middle is created by falling ice and boulders, stay out. We started at 3am.

Slope:
35 degrees down low,
39 degrees typical,
43 degrees steepest.
By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
May 9, 2016

This climb was possibly first done by Albert Ellingwood in 1919, surmised from "Scholar of Summits" by Jeff Arnold.