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Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
Bell Buster S 
Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Headwall T 
Hound Dog S 
Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
North Face T 
Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoiled Moose, The T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Unknown T 
Unknown Crack T 
Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Bell Buttress - Main Crag Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.0011, -105.413 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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  • Description 

    Bell Buttress is a towering, mostly North-facing wall opposite of Practice Rock. Many old and classic routes can be found here but not too many easy routes. The famous route Cosmosis should not be missed, and if you're a trad hardman (or woman), there are some testpieces on this wall, some with a great deal of controversy surrounding them....

    With its north-facing exposure, the wall stays in the shade until early afternoon. so summer outings are cool, but on winter days you're probably better off with another wall.

    A. Bell Air, 11, 2p, 190', bolts & gear.
    B. The Pitts, 11, 2p, 220', bolts & gear.
    B1. Unknown, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
    B2. Unknown Crack, 10-, 1p, gear.
    B3. North Face, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
    C. The Bypass 8 A4, 1p.
    D. Freak on a Leash, 12+, 1p, bolts.
    E. Hound Dog, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
    F. Grand Inquisitor, 12 R, 1p?, gear & bolts.
    G. The Purpose, 12, 1p, 75', bolts & gear.
    H. Gates of Eden, 10-, 2-3p, gear.
    I. Double Jeopardy, 9, 2-3p, gear.
    J. Bell Buster, 11-, 1p, bolts.
    K. The Spoils, 12, 1p, 70', gear.
    KM1. The Spoiled Moose, 13- R, 1p, gear.
    L. Verve, 13, 1p, bolts.
    M. Swerve 12, R/X, 1p, gear & bolt.
    M1. Cosmosis, 9+, 3p, gear.
    M2? The Route That Dan Missed, 10 R/X, 1p, gear.
    N. Beethoven's Fifth, 12+ R, 1p, 80', gear.
    O. Unfinished Symphony, 11, 1p, gear.
    P. West Crack, 9+, 1p, gear.
    Q. West Face, 9, 2p, gear.
    R. Arete, 12, 1p?, bolts?
    S. Little Man And The Boat, 12- R, 1p?, gear?
    T. Epiphany Direct, 12, 1p, gear & bolt.
    U. Epiphany, 11+ R, 1p, 100', gear & bolt.
    U1. Saved by the Bell, 11, 1p, gear.
    V. Arms Bazaar, 12-, 1p, gear.
    W. Three Minute Hero, 11 R/X, 1p, 66', gear.
    X. Joe Pontiac, 7 or 9?, 1-2p, gear.
    Y. Malaise, 10, 1p, gear.
    Z. Daedalus, 10 R, 1p, gear.
    AA. Wrinkles, 9, 3p, gear.
    AA1. Christmas In LA, 7, 2nd var 50' R of Z 2nd p, gear.
    BB. Wayward Puritan, 6, 2p, gear.
    CC. Five-Ten Route, 10-, 1p, gear.
    DD. Front Line 11, 1p, gear.
    EE. Frontier 11 R, 1p, gear.
    FF. Tiers 7, 1p, gear.

    Getting There 

    Drive West on Canyon from Boulder and set your odometer at the bridge just east of the Dome. Drive 8.1mi up the canyon and a little ways beyond Boulder Falls, look for Practice Rock on the north side of the road with a gravel pullout. Park here then head across the creek on the south side of the road via a tree bridge.

    To access the routes, hike downstream to the east end of the wall then scramble up an easy ramp to the base of the routes. Descent from the top is via a gully on the west side of the wall.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 5.5 miles from here

    31 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bell Buttress - Main Crag:
    West Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    West Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   
    Cosmosis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Gates of Eden   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Hound Dog   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Saved by the Bell   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Epiphany   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Arms Bazaar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Grand Inquisitor   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
    The Spoils   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
    The Purpose   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
    Beethoven's Fifth   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Freak on a Leash   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness)   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Verve   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bell Buttress - Main Crag

    Featured Route For Bell Buttress - Main Crag
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kat TRs through the crux of Beethoven's 5th (12d, ...

    Beethoven's Fifth 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Bell Buttress - Main Crag
    Climb the obvious thin crack(s) between Cosmosis and West Crack. Start on the right seam for a few moves, then move left up the main seam. Hug the 2 cracks for a few moves where the route steepens before crossing back to the left crack (crux). Some funky moves through the small dihedral roof get you to the chains.The route accepts good modern gear. The safety rating is given for the insecure start (& sparse gear) as well as the difficulty of placement through the crux s...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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