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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Bell Buster 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: S. Ritchie, S. Reynolds, R. Leitner, K. Miller, & M. Rolofson, Aug. 16, 2000
Page Views: 947
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Sep 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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  • Description 

    This is a varied and interesting route. It is not the best in the area, but it is well worth doing if it's crowded. It is in the shade all day long.

    Start with a hard bouldery problem on sharp rock up to the first bolt, and continue on more sharp holds straight up the second bolt (sustained crux until this point).

    Grab a nice, big jug left of the third bolt, then work back right to the arete and up much easier climbing to the fourth bolt. There is a long-ish distance between the third and fourth bolt, but the climbing is easy.

    At the fourth bolt, choose between a big stem move left (harder, but the bolt is at your head) OR continue up the arete a little, then swing your feet on the face and scamper up.

    Pass three more bolts up easier climbing to a two-bolt rap station.


    After climbing up the ramp and passing Hound Dog, this is the obvious sport climb on the north side of the next gully.


    7 (6?) bolt and as 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on Bell Buster Add Comment
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    By Kevin Gillest
    From: Arvada, CO
    Aug 13, 2012
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    We climbed this route in the rain, perfect situation until you top out on the slab finish. Overall a fairly good route, but if Hound Dog is truly 11a, this route is easier.
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 4, 2016
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    The crux seemed to be clipping the 2nd bolt. The route would be more enjoyable if this bolt were in a more sensible position. Also, the 2nd to last bolt is 2 feet from a perfectly good #0.5 Camalot placement, so it really shouldn't be there at all. Good climbing on interesting pegmatite, but the bolting could use improvement.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 14, 2017
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Michalm has a rather unrealistic attitude towards sport climbs. Having to bring one piece gear to place off route & left of the 5th bolt sets up a dangerous situation for many climbers who think the route will be all bolts. I do remember coming quite close to Double Jeopardy's bush infested corner on the upper section of the route. Not a pretty trad line & one to avoid.

    Don't assume that the FA team were just a bunch of sport climbers. We all have had extensive trad experience since the 1970s. I love sport routes, & I love trad routes. Having to place one or two pieces of gear on a sport route is not what I'm into.

    My guidebook says there are 6 protection bolts, not 7.

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