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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
Bell Buster S 
Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Headwall T 
Hound Dog S 
Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
North Face T 
Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoiled Moose, The T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Unknown T 
Unknown Crack T 
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West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Bell Air 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: M. Tarrant, R. Wright, 2003/2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Nov 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Halfway up the first pitch.

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  • Description 

    This 2 pitch, north-facing route starts on the left side of Bell Buttress just after you start up the ramp that leads to the main section of the cliff (about 50' before Hound Dog). Belay inside some large flakes, well-stuck into the ground. Look for a pine tree about 30' up and left of the trail.

    Pitch 1: 5.9, 160', 12 bolts, med. cams, 3 bolt anchor. This long, mixed pitch climbs a lichenous, mossy slab past 7 bolts and then crosses a corner where two natural placements can be had. The remainder is bolted. There are carpets of thick, pretty, green moss, most of which were left in place--only crucial holds were brushed--climb gently through these sections.

    P2: 5.11b/c, 40', 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A short pitch that packs a sturdy punch. Move up and left to climb the vertical arete and face. Contend with all manner of weirdness at bolt 2 (.11a/b), and reach the crux at bolt 4. This pitch features edges and several interesting pockets on good rock.

    Descent: Lower off the upper pitch back to the belay, then rap twice to the ground. Rap #1: 50' down the slab to bolts in a V-slot about 10' right (west) of the first pitch. Rap #2: 80' to the ground.

    The first pitch leads to the base of The Pitts (.11b)--a good, steep, trad crack. This gives you another pitch to climb while you're up there, making the outing more worthwhile.

    Protection 

    About 15 draws + small and medium cams.


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    By Nick Wilder
    Site Landlord
    From: The Bubble
    Jul 10, 2011

    Mossy. Licheny. Rotten rock. But kind of good, if you're in an adventurous mood! I broke a very large rock, took a good fall, and luckily didn't hurt anyone when the microwave-size block hit the trail below. Can get down in two raps. Second is tucked in and hard to see.
    By Monte Lunacek
    Aug 6, 2013

    We tried to climb this route on Sunday, August 4th 2013, but there is a grapefruit-sized hornet's nest just after the pillar on the first pitch that we couldn't climb around. My partner was stung four times. Watch out!
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    May 24, 2014

    The hornet nest is gone. The poor bolting on P2 still remains. The 1st bolt is in a weird spot based on where the anchors are located. You will cross load your biner, so don't fall before clipping the second bolt.

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