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Belays of Our Wives T 
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Belays of Our Wives 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Team Mabe, Oct. 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 123
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Oct 10, 2015

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FA of Belays of our Wives


Excellent and dramatic movement for such a short route. Its length is the only thing keeping it from getting 4 stars. The tight finger crack starts from the lower of the tiered ledges. The hardest moves are off the belay. Enjoy the finger jamming up to the heart-shaped double chockstones and crank to your right. (going straight up is a bad idea). Finish with some thoughtful moderate face climbing moves, using double incipient cracks.


The nice tiered ledge is the landmark for this and surrounding routes; these are the belays of our wives. Start from the lower tier.

NOTE: The finger crack that leads directly above the upper tier is a bit harder and dead ends into some very precarious looking large blocks, or safely finish with neighboring routes.


a couple of micro cams, as well as a Blue, Yellow, Orange Metolius work nicely, and a #.75-#1C4. Belay on either the upper or lower tier with stoppers or small cams.

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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 18, 2016

One of the best route names I've seen in a while!

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