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Being and Nothingness 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0+

   
Type:  Sport, Aid, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A0+ [details]
FA: Gary Anderson, Art Messier
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: T.J. Esposito on Mar 11, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Being and Nothingness (12a A0) with Essential Madn...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

"Local classic"... "Must-do if you're in the area!"... Phrases that don't really apply to this route.

I'm guessing this one doesn't get a lot of traffic, lots of missing or loose holds; probably best to avoid it unless you want a pretty tough day on mostly mediocre rock. If climbing at your limit, bring a bail biner just in case for P2/P5 (There are two old rusted 1/8 quicklinks at the P5 crux, don't use those!)

P1 had a few hundred pounds or so of rotten blocks come off the final moves on 3/10/13, making for either super hard slab traverse (harder than the indicated 5.10) or a pendulum to the left to reach the first belay from the other side. You'll come up directly under rap anchors but skip them and move to the anchors to the left. (Indicated 10a, probably 10 A0+)

P2 is thin, delicate, hard, and sustained. Up and then traverse right on a dike. Hard to french free the crux. (Indicated 11c, probably at least 11d or tricky 11/A0)

P3 is also super sustained with a tricky mini-roof to pull. (Indicated 10d, probably 11a/b)

P4 is pretty sweet, the only pitch that seemed to be mostly intact. Crux just off the belay with some moderate liebacks/gastons, a really good elevator move on good holds, super strenuous high-feet liebacking to a roof that's way easier to pull than it would appear. Eases up a bit to the belay, fun hanging off another dike. (Indicated and probably 12a, can french free if needed)

P5 is a bit gritty and slabby then has an obvious crux with two ways to get past it depending on your strengths. Pretty much blank and you'll be hanging from slopers either way. Also difficult to french free. (Indicated 11a, probably mid 11)

Rapping from the first belay at the end of P5 (at the start of the ramp to the top) takes you down Essential Madness.

Location 

Starts up the ramp to the right side of the center wall.

Protection 

Quickdraws (dozen or so).


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