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Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013

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Description 

To 35m: Climb straight above the new Beijing anchor into easy climbing for a few bolts. The route trends up and right through an obvious dihedral system. When the dihedral starts to trend straight up it becomes pumpy with an awkward crux over a bulge in the dihedral. Stand up over the bulge and clip the chains.

To 40m: From the 35m anchor at 11c do a huge move right to a mail slot, then another reachy move up and left to a good hold. Clip one bolt then do a bouldery move to holds and a delicate finish at another anchor above at 40m. The rock is not as good on this extra section but it has been extensively cleaned. It adds a super fun hard boulder problem at 40m with clean air time. If you have an 80m rope and want an extra challenge go for it!

Protection 

Bolts


Comments on Beijing Extension (11c 35m/12b 40m) Add Comment
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By Vlad S
May 26, 2015

I've tried this route a few times now over the years, every time climbing up to the very last bolt without hangs, and every time I'm stopped by the crumbly choss above the last bolt. The climbing above the last anchor is really fun up to the last 2-finger pocket before the slab. The anchor should have been placed here making a fun 12a. Above that the rock is total sh*t and doesn't deserve to be climbed. I'd give it 3 stars up to the last bolt.
By rickziegler Ziegler
Nov 14, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Got on this again. It's cleaned up really well to the 5.11 anchor. Need to do this one more often.
By Patrick O'Donnell
Jan 25, 2016

3 stars to 2nd 11c anchor 35m.

1 star to 3rd anchor (1 more bolt) at 40m. Not the greatest rock which is why I lowered the anchor, but I still end up doing it every time I get on the route. probably more like 12a. I'm probably the only one that does the 3rd extension ha ha.

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