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Notch, cave side (SW)
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Behind the Eight Ball 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,969
Submitted By: Eric8 on Jun 30, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The OW of pitch two. The fixed rope in the photo i...

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A splitter wide crack, a rarity for Index. With its locker fist jams, a few offwidthy moves, and a juggy lieback,this thing would be 4 stars if it were not for the dirty start and finish. The meat of the route is clean.

Beware of the decompossing 2nd tree at the start we tried to kick it down on rappel and where unsuccessful, it would not be safe for the leader to pull on this. A 60m just makes the ground for the rappel. There is no webbing on the tree as of 6-27-08 so it would be nice if the next person up there brought some for that purpose.

An excellent route to do when it's too warm to climb at the Lower Wall.


Walk past toxic/even steven area approximately 200ft and look back and left for the obvious wide splitter in a right facing corner.


3,3.5,4,4.5 camalots old sizes, double up or walk them if you want. A couple med sizes pieces are nice for the dirty top too.

Photos of Behind the Eight Ball Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 starts as a thin crack behind a boulder, t...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 starts as a thin crack behind a boulder, t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view of Behind the Eight Ball (10a) from the b...
BETA PHOTO: The view of Behind the Eight Ball (10a) from the b...

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By szheng
Aug 2, 2016

Got cocky and attempted to do this with only one #4 and #5. Would definitely recommend bringing two #4s or equivalent unless you're very comfortable on wide fists (I'm not, and resorted to a strenuous layback for the first 20ft of the route while trying to walk the #4, not a great combination). A single #5 works fine as the crack widens the stances get better and face holds appear over the lip. I don't think I used any #3s. For the first pitch a light single rack is fine.

Would be awesome if the first pitch and topout were clean!!

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