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Begoon/Artz Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eddie Begoon and Mike Artz
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Nov 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Begoon/Artz Corner

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Begoon/Artz climbs the long corner with multiple roofs just left of Lavender Days. In order to avoid rope drag it's best to solo the 5.7 face you use to start Just Another Pretty face and Lavender Days. Once under the corner you can plug a bomber #2 Camalot. Use a mixture of jamming, stemming, laybacking and basic corner funkiness to get you through the multi-tiered roof. Have no fear, this thing is easily succumbed with a few wide stems and a short smeary under cling section.

Location 

Just left of Lavender Days and right of Just Another Pretty Face

Protection 

Cams and stoppers up to #3
Double bolt anchor at the top


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By BrianWS
Oct 27, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Highly recommended -- a real pleasant surprise, given the route's apparent lack of traffic. Climbs very similar to corners in the Red, but with better stone.
By Clinton Miller
Dec 7, 2015

If you lead 5.9, get on this one.

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