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Beginners Top-Rope Face
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Beginner's Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Beginner's Slab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beginners Top-Rope Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Bullseye T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Wave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Guido TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Iodine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mercury S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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No Name Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pizza Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Razor Blade T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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ZigZag Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | TR |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,446 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Sep 21, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Paradise, Library, and Hawk Rock closed to climbing
Details
During the recent public OHV study meetings linked below, The Earth Conservancy has made it clear that they do not allow rock climbing on their land. The Library, Paradise, and Hawk Rock all fall within Earth Conservancy Land, and are therefore closed to climbing. The Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of climbers is currently working with the Access Fund, Earth Conservancy, and DCNR to reopen these areas to climbing. Please be respectful of this closure and utilize the other crags around Mocanaqua to avoid further jeopardizing our future access of these beloved crags.
earthconservancy.org/recrea…
earthconservancy.org/recrea…
Description
Variety of footholds on interesting rock surfaces - (mostly it's not a "friction" slab) - also a variety of smaller and bigger handholds to play with.
Go roughly straight up, passing left of a young tree. Reach a nice little platform (about 1 ft by 3 ft) also with convenient handholds - which is 15-20 feet below the top of the cliff. That's the top of the "beginners" route - (trying to climb above it is way harder).
Variation: Climb directly on the arete at left side of this face (between the "Beginners Crack" corner and the Beginners Face) - looking for the most interesting moves to play with. Crux is at 20-25 feet, stepping over to move up the left side of the arete (around 10c).
Go roughly straight up, passing left of a young tree. Reach a nice little platform (about 1 ft by 3 ft) also with convenient handholds - which is 15-20 feet below the top of the cliff. That's the top of the "beginners" route - (trying to climb above it is way harder).
Variation: Climb directly on the arete at left side of this face (between the "Beginners Crack" corner and the Beginners Face) - looking for the most interesting moves to play with. Crux is at 20-25 feet, stepping over to move up the left side of the arete (around 10c).
Location
At an eleven-inch-thick tree just right around the corner from "Beginners Crack".
Update 8/21: The tree has been cut down, but the stump still remains as a good location indicator.
Protection
Top-rope anchor is a pair of bolts on top of the cliff -- which is 15-20 feet above the little platform at the top of this beginner's route.
Most beginners will be safer with a lower directional to prevent them from swinging left across the arete and down into the corner/crack.
Note that the obvious way to scramble up around the left end of the wall (to set up the top anchor for top-roping) is slippery and exposed when wet.
.(Quality of protection of this route for trad leading is unknown).
Most beginners will be safer with a lower directional to prevent them from swinging left across the arete and down into the corner/crack.
Note that the obvious way to scramble up around the left end of the wall (to set up the top anchor for top-roping) is slippery and exposed when wet.
.(Quality of protection of this route for trad leading is unknown).
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