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Beginner's Three 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,699
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 30, 2005

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The full route.


On the far end of the northwest face, going from the ground to the ledge below the Overhang Bypass, there is a nice low-angle jamcrack. This is a good beginenr's lead and would take whatever protection you might want to jam into it. It's also a decent and fun entry-level solo. The climb starts just down from the "walk up" to the ledge and finishes at the base of the Overhang Bypass.


A few nuts or cams to hand sized

Photos of Beginner's Three Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginner's Three
Beginner's Three
Rock Climbing Photo: Myong finishing up Beginner's Three.
Myong finishing up Beginner's Three.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sadie cruising her first ever trad lead.
Sadie cruising her first ever trad lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Myong getting started on her first ever trad lead.
Myong getting started on her first ever trad lead.

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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007

This is definitely a great beginner's crack and a fun solo. The crux is getting off the ground then it's smooth and fun jamming to the top. Great place to learn hand jams and great first trad lead for the faint of heart. Easy walk off.
By Gary Schenk
Mar 5, 2008

Among my first leads. It's a nice way to start the Upper Right Ski Track.
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 25, 2008

I've found beginners have a hard time on the start. I've seen people who could climb 5.8 in the gym fail to get off the ground on Beginner's Three.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

I agree with Gary, a great way to start Upper Right Ski Track. Seems to get easier the higher you climb.
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 4, 2015

The start is definitely challenging for 5.3. However, they are the most difficult moves on the climb. If you can get off the ground, you'll cruise the climb. It has more fun jamming than the Bong, but is way less cool of a line.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 24, 2015

Story time: Around 2007 I was climbing full time, living in Josh. Went into the park early, no coffee, and booted up at the base of this for a morning of soloing. Wiped the crust out of my eyes, plugged a handjam, a little too relaxed, stood up, reached for the next jam...and fell out, landing on my ass. Well, that woke me up. Went on to solo about 15 pitches that day. Never let your guard down, even the easy ones can bite you.
By Andrew Bak
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
May 27, 2016
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

My first onsight Trad Lead! Hands and feet right where you want them, just when you need them. Getting off the ground is the hardest move.

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