|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Colin Moorhead on Jun 28, 2010|
|Comments on Beginners Luck||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Matt Hoffmann
Oct 1, 2012
|Kind of disagree that this is a good first lead just because of the "traverse" at the start and pro in the flakes. It's super easy and short and not that much fun. For my money there are tons of better "first leads". Klahanie crack comes to mind first but, just look around the bluffs for a nice easy crack climb.|
By Jonny 5
From: Squamish BC
Dec 14, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I loved this route. I don't think there is much this steep at this grade in this area. One question. I got belayed from the start of the traverse as we just both hopped up there in our sandals, so the question is this route meant to be belayed from below the traverse or does it matter??
fwiw I belayed from above and we both just rapped off...
Aug 27, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Even a couple days after rain the sloping ledge was slick and the leader either has to do this section unprotected or manage rope drag(may be mitigated if you belay from next to the ledge I suppose?). The ledge is low angle but the hands are not super secure. From the ledge, the climbing is fun and secure and there is a lot of places for protection.
We both lead and both rapped so I can't speak to top rope friendliness.