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2-fer T,S 
Antlers on a Sunday T 
Arch Traverse S 
Bandito T 
Beginner's Luck T 
Black Dynamite T 
Bridge of Air T,S 
Burnt Beautician T,S 
Catch a Wave S 
Dike Arch T,S 
Dike Pinch T,S 
Don Juan T 
Dreams of Far Away Places T 
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Motion Fascination T 
Napa Arete T,S 
Napa Valley T 
Optical Illusions S 
Overlap T,S 
People are Poodles Too. T 
Pillar 1 S 
Pillar 2a  T,S 
Porticullis S 
R-Tree It T,S 
Red Hangers T 
Right of Trash Can Alley T 
Second Pillar S 
Silently Indirect T,S 
Simple Mind S 
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Smooth Reach T,S 
Standard Route T 
Steeple, The T 
Sun Dancer T 
Sweet Sunday Serenade T 
Three's Company T 
Tree It T,S 
Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 
Unknown Arete T,S 
Unknown Pillar T,S 
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Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 
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Upper Deck 2 T,S 
Wave, The T,S 

Beginner's Luck 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 1, 2005

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Ben following to anchor.


Beginner's Luck is one of the handful of routes located to the left of the Access Fund trail's end. From the end of the trail, follow the base of the wall to the left past the large Napa Valley buttress and look for the bolts on Fearless First. Beginner's Luck is the right-trending crack to the left of Fearless First (there are a few bolts to the left of Beginner's but the routes are not identified in Baum's guidebook).

The first half of the crack is a little awkward in spots but straightforward nonetheless. Follow the crack past a horizontal break about a third of the way up. Continue to the top of the crack just below a large ledge. Traverse left and climb to the ledge and the anchors. Easy route and a fine introduction to Unaweep's climbs.

To descend, rap with a single rope from the ledge.


Standard rack: hand-sized cams, set of nuts.

Photos of Beginner's Luck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Grant at the crux of Beginner's Luck.
Grant at the crux of Beginner's Luck.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cherie' starting up Beginner's Luck.
Cherie' starting up Beginner's Luck.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Marr rapping Beginner's Luck.  Fearless firs...
Steve Marr rapping Beginner's Luck. Fearless firs...

Comments on Beginner's Luck Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was a terrific crack climb. On the easier side of 5.7, but a great romp up the granite. Certainly worth climbing if you're looking for a moderate route on Sunday Wall.
By Franz N
From: Mass.
Apr 15, 2013

Fun little crack system with an awkward start. The climb was a little sandy which may have been due to the rain the night before. Lots of places to put gear leading to a two bolt anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave following to the belay anchor.
Dave following to the belay anchor.

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