REI Community
Bad Bananas
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Allegro Energico S 
Bad Bananas T 
Banana Roof S 
Be All That You Can Be S 
Beetlejuice S 
Brain Full of Spiders S 
Bufugly S 
Chiquita S 
Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 
Early Retirement T 
El Crapitan S 
Good Plantains T 
Jodonna S 
Moment of Decay S 
Mozambique S 
Oscar the Grouch S 
Rainbird S 
Vitamine P S 
Western Front S 
When You’re Feeling Sinister S 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Bad Bananas "cave" 3 Bad Bananas 5....


An exciting, pumpy climb on rough, sharp rock through a roof, overhanging territory, and a couple of bulges.

Start on top of a tillite ramp and climb out to the lip of the roof using good handholds and poor feet. Clip the third bolt, eye the good holds above the roof and wonder how you are ever going to get there.

After figuring it out, pull up over the roof to a good clipping hold for the fourth bolt, and then wonder where the feet went. Think happy thoughts, apply the pixie dust, and float up to the fifth bolt. At this point, the feet are tricky and the handholds become temporarily devious. Continue on up using sharp, horizontal holds, sidepulls, underclings, and wishful thinking.

After the last bolt it is fairly easy to surmount the final bulge and get to the chains.

The route name comes from the squishy remains of a Box Elder Bug colony that Darren's hands left during the FA in one of the slot handholds just over the roof.


Just to the left of the "cave" section at the base of Bad Bananas. The start is easily identified by two closely-spaced bolts under the roof, next to a right-facing horizontal corner. The third bolt is in a straight line from the first two, just at the lip of the roof.


7 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Bad Bananas P1, to the left).

Photos of Beetlejuice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Child on Beetlejuice.
Aaron Child on Beetlejuice.

Comments on Beetlejuice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Apr 17, 2008

The rock is quite rough and sharp. You should be able to find the holds by following the trail of blood I left.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Nov 21, 2009

This is a fantastic area on cold days. This wall holds warmth and altitude. At the first jug seam there were literally hundreds of lady bugs hiding and warming. Gotta move fast thru the first 3-4 clips. Powerful moves with sketchy feet is the name of the game here. Once you get higher the holds get better with some rests. Definitely pumpy and very fun.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About