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Beethoven's Fifth 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Dale Goddard
Page Views: 4,145
Submitted By: reboot on Jul 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Kat TRs through the crux of Beethoven's 5th (12d, ...

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  • Description 

    Climb the obvious thin crack(s) between Cosmosis and West Crack. Start on the right seam for a few moves, then move left up the main seam. Hug the 2 cracks for a few moves where the route steepens before crossing back to the left crack (crux). Some funky moves through the small dihedral roof get you to the chains.

    The route accepts good modern gear. The safety rating is given for the insecure start (& sparse gear) as well as the difficulty of placement through the crux section (potentially long but clean fall).

    As for the grade, I'm hesitant to upgrade it...let's just call it old-school 12d.


    An assortment of small-medium stoppers, small cams to #0.75 Camalot and a #2 (or #3) Camalot. Narrow head width cams (TCUs, Aliens) work better for the first couple placements. As of 09/2012, there are chain anchors on top (thanks to Ed). A TR is best set up traversing from West Crack than Cosmosis (the top bit is not easily aid-able w/o hooks).

    Comments on Beethoven's Fifth Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 27, 2008

    The bottom part of this takes only sparse small gear from some insecure stances, and it's hard to see the gear to check it without compromising your balance.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 23, 2008

    The bottom part of this route is slabby 5.11 protected by small gear. There's a good rest before the headwall. The crux is pretty awesome movement capped by a big move (static on micro hold, or dyno) to a big hold from which to clip the anchors. What more could a classic route want?
    By Ben Sachs
    May 25, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Sandbag. Good gear the whole way though (bring RPs for the bottom). Classic moves, stunning line.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 30, 2012

    If I projected routes, I'd probably give this one a go. But I'm lazy and I don't climb that hard, so I'll settle for getting rejected on it on TR (hmmmph). Well protected crux but pretty hard, & it comes when you are already pumped.
    By Ben Sachs
    Nov 28, 2012
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    Thanks for the bolted anchor. It needed one. I almost put one in but lost interest. Way to not be lazy!
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Jul 6, 2013
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

    I'd say this barely deserves a PG-13 rating with use of modern gear. Good, if not great, placements every 6-8 feet to protect the engaging 5.11 for the first 30'. A combination of RPs, small stoppers or C3s sew the bottom up pretty well. Upper crux protected well by small cams though a long fall is certainly possible yet safe. Can't wait to redpoint this one!
    By Christopher Barlow
    Apr 21, 2014
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

    Obviously, safety ratings are subjective, too, and are often hypothetical until someone (or several someones) tests it, but to me PG-13 means "safe as long as you maximize pro, but you still might take long falls," which I think describes Beethoven's exactly. That said, there's "not insignificantly difficult" climbing that is only protected by 2 equalized RPs, and below that is the ground. Sure, I believe they would've held, but it did seem kind of heads up. For sure, falling off the actual hard climbing involves air time. It's worth dealing with the gear, though, because this pitch is awesome.
    By EJM
    Aug 23, 2014
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

    One of the nicest lines in BoCan. Plugging the crux piece makes this thing ultra-solid for the grade.
    By Corey Flynn
    From: USA
    Apr 3, 2017

    Clean and BOLD. The start wasnt nearly as bad to lead as I initially anticipated, but I lobbed two MEGA whippers off the top prior to the send. Make sure your buddy gives you a soft catch, and the fall isn't too bad. Toprope lap or two is recommended prior to the lead unless you are ballin' hard.

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