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Medlicott Dome, Center
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer T 
D'oh! T 
Donuts TR 
Excellent Smithers S 
Forsaken T 
Goldmember T 
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 
Shagadelic T 

Beer 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Bryan Law
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Crimpanzee on Sep 14, 2015

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"Beer" and zero other people on Medlicot...

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  • Description 

    Start in a decent corner crack with a short, fun bulge, then a little more crack to a hollow flake. Two bolts protect well on an extremely thin, crimpy slab for a couple moves that feel like 5.10-, but I'll give the FA/SuperTopo the benefit of the doubt and just call it 5.9+ :-)

    Location 

    Follow the climber's trail to the base of Medlicott Dome, center. There is a right-leaning ramp at the base of the few single-pitch routes here, and "Beer" is the left-most. It might be easier to find "D'oh" (aka the first pitch of "Excellent Smithers"), which is an obvious 5.7 knobby hand crack in a corner. From here, just left of this is a corner to roof ("Donuts" 5.10a TR) and left of this is "Beer", a thin corner crack to a small bulge. Try to spot the two bolts around 50-60' up, but you won't be able to spot the anchor.

    Protection 

    2 bolts up high, single rack. The anchor is only two bolts with hangers, no rappel rings. You can set up TR on "Beer", but you should move right on an easy ledge to rapp from "D'oh"/"Excellent Smithers P1" anchors.


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