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Beer Wench 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Eric McCallister, Eric Hörst, Charles Ganote, and Cindy Hintz (June, 2002)
Page Views: 1,266
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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First outdoor sport lead. Quite a stiff opening m...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

No way this puppy is 5.8-. Definite sandbag. The opening crack is at least 5.9. Get a good spot or bring a stick clip for the crux, because you'll be doing it before you clip the first bolt.

Climb the flaring crack through the bulge (crux, strenuous clip), then stray a bit right up the nice face to a short open book. Stem up the open book (5.7) to the anchors.

Location 

Below an obvious flaring crack below the far right side of the roof system.

Protection 

4 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Beer Wench Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the 2nd(?) bolt
Clipping the 2nd(?) bolt

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By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Aug 17, 2015

I couldn't start this...not only is it a flaring crack, there is a small bulge right above, blocking good feet and offering naught but slopers for hands.

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