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Murphy's Dome South Face
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Beer is Better T 
Black Streak Through Overlap S 
Bottom Feeder S 
Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call T 
Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) T 
Hey, Dude S 
Irish Red S 
King and Eye, The TR 
Murphy's Law S 
Murphy's Stout S 
Pork Meadows S 
Slim Chance S,TR 
Stitch of Time T,S 
Water Witch S 
Where's My Car? S 

Beer is Better 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: TR: Jay Eggleston, 5-6-16
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on May 6, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Just before the Irish Red anchors.

Description 

This is certainly not the best route on the rock, but, if you are crazy enough to bring big gear to this rock, it is something to do. Most of the way your feet are on the slab and you only use the crack for your hands. You can lieback much of the crack, but in the best 10' of the climb, you can use hand jams to ascend. Near the edge of the crack the rock is quite friable. I broke much of the loose stuff off, but more remains. Your biggest piece will be the first you place which means your second will carry it up most of the climb. If you only have as big as a #6, it will be your first piece. It is a little risky getting up to where it can be used. My next piece was a #5. The best part of the climb is the short hand crack section about halfway up. There is a small sticker bush in the way up higher, but the climbing is easier here. You can belay from the anchors on Irish Red if you wish to do two pitches, or you can clip its anchors for pro.

Above, you follow a wide crack to the right which leads to the last two bolts on Murphy's Law. This crack takes a #6 and a #5, so it is good to do the climb in two pitches. The hardest parts are right at the beginning and at the last two bolts on Murphy's Law. Let me know if I did not have the first ascent, but I probably do.

Location 

This is the wide crack between Irish Red and Murphy's Law. The start is near a small tree just to the left of the 1st bolt on Murphy's Law. You descend from the anchors on Murphy's Law.

Protection 

Standard rack, mainly cams - 2 #5 Camalots (only 1 needed if done as two pitches), 2 #6 Camalots, and a blue Big Bro or Valley Giant. There is a bolt anchor midway and at the top.


Photos of Beer is Better Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of the climb or the second pitch if done i...
BETA PHOTO: The top of the climb or the second pitch if done i...
Rock Climbing Photo: The mininscule hand crack section.
BETA PHOTO: The mininscule hand crack section.
Rock Climbing Photo: A rope hanging on the climb.  Good view of the sta...
BETA PHOTO: A rope hanging on the climb. Good view of the sta...

Comments on Beer is Better Add Comment
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By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Jul 30, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Maybe a bomb rating is tough, but the edge of the crack is quite loose, and it seemed like a 3-4 foot section is about to fall off. I was able to solo up the slab without touching the choss, which wasn't bad. I guess then I'd suggest skipping the big stuff and toproping from the anchors on either side.

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