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North Buttress of Cathedral
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Beer Gut T 
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Small Arch Left Side TR 

Beer Gut 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 550', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Lance "Milo" Cagle and Mike Bizon
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on Aug 18, 2015  with updates from Vlada Matena

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Chris Falkenstein kindly provided this original ha...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Start: Scramble 50' or so up the easy slabs and belay off gear in a small right-facing flake-corner.

P. 1: Easy slabs with little protection, up to a bolted anchor on top of a flake. 5.3, 200'.

P. 2: Friction up and left into the large right-facing corner. Follow this to a ledge with a bolted anchor. This is a fun pitch and way easier than it looks from below. 5.6,160'.

P. 3: Climb up the steeper wall directly above the belay, stepping first a bit left and then back right, to join a smaller right-arching corner and crack system. Follow the crack until it fades out, at the base of a field of big knobs. Climb the knobs (not hard, but no protection to speak of) up and a bit left to a ledge and bolted anchor. 5.7-, 170'.

Rappel the route with two ropes. The crack system continues up through the summit visor, but the rock quality deteriorates a bit.

A quality route. Rated 5.8 in the Falkenstein guide; we thought it was more like 5.7-, though thought-provokimg in spots.


Follow the JMT to where the North Buttress slab is obvious just a few yards left of the trail. Head left about a hundred yards to low-angled slabs. The most distinctive feature of the route is a large right-facing, right-leaning corner that forms the second pitch. The third pitch ends under the large, obvious summit visor; the route does not summit the formation.


Standard rack to 3" including some thin cams. Two ropes for the rappels. Belay/rap anchors are bolted.

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