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6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall
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12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 
13 5.4 Corner T 
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 
6.63 Smoots T,TR 
Basswood Chimney T,TR 
Beer and Booty T,TR 
Bifurcation T,TR 
Der Glotz TR 
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 
False Dilemma T 
Fear and Trembling TR 
Grandma's Staircase TR 
Indigo Billy T,TR 
Invitation T,TR 
Invitation Direct T,TR 
Law and Gospel T,TR 
Moondust  T 
Morning After T 
Mr. Neutron TR 
New Box T,TR 
Night Before TR 
R.S.V.P. T,TR 
Red Pulpit T,TR 
Spring Fever TR 
Sunken Pillar T,TR 
Switch Cover Crack T 
Unnamed Short route T,TR 
Watermarks T,TR 
Watermarks Direct T,TR 
Watermarks Left Side TR 

Beer and Booty 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 375
Submitted By: Jeff VS on May 28, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: John on the second crux


Friend John Markestad and I have been working the face between Fear and Trembling and Red Pulpit. This is a truly lovely 5.10a/b unleadable (at least we wouldn't try it) climb and my favorite on the whole Balanced Rock Wall. The first crux is getting off the ground (no surprise there) and the next is a simple looking little bulge about 12 feet up. Ignore the juggy holds on the left higher up and you have a climb that every move is at least a 5.8. All moves are small face stuff with no cracks or large holds. Very elegant! We are calling it "Beer and Booty" since it took me 3 beers before I could pull the second crux and John found a #5 hex while setting the top pro.


There is a six foot wide wall between "Fear and Trembling" and "The Red Pulpit". This route goes right up the middle. Don't use holds from those two climbs.


This climb really has no way to protect a lead other than stealing the Red Pulpit crack which would be very artificial.

Photos of Beer and Booty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John Markestad on the first crux, just off the gro...
BETA PHOTO: John Markestad on the first crux, just off the gro...

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By Jeff VS
May 29, 2014

This is such an obvious route I can't imagine it hasn't been done many times before. I don't find it listed in any of the guide books though.
By Terry Kieck
May 29, 2014

I know it has been done before. I did it years ago and I doubt I was the first. There are several variations, contrivances, and possible stand alone routes on balanced rock wall (and others in the park for that matter) that are still only word of mouth or where done and no one was told. I enjoy doing something new to me that isn't in a guide book or on the internet and just walk away feeling good about the climb and accomplishment. If I don't tell people about it maybe they can experience the same satisfaction about it as I did. That's not to say I have never told the world about a FA but I also enjoy the quiet side of climbing and keep it as a solo adventure. So, just because its not in a guide or on the net doesn't mean it hasn't been done before.

That all being said I hope I didn't just ruin your experience by telling you it has been done. I hope you had a great evening of climbing.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
May 30, 2014

+1 Terry
By Jeff VS
May 30, 2014

Thanks Terry! Couldn't imagine it was a FA. It is such a pretty climb, I'd just like more people to enjoy it.

We also have a couple of "nobody knows about" spots that I'll never list on Mountain Project.
By rjacobs
Jun 19, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I read this entry only after having climbed this, so I don't have any strong options about whether-or-not variations like this should be officially listed (as opposed to just word of mouth, or general serendipity). Anyway, I don't think that my experience with the climb would have been reduced if I was getting on it only because I had read this.

What I can say is that this is a fine little climb. A couple tenuous moves at the bottom an interesting high-stepping/mantle move at the bulge. I also managed to do a signature "incisor grip" while moving over the bulge (due to the way my head was arching into the wall off the mantle), which is a technique that I do not recommend for others. It's certainly nice to find a new sequence on this wall.
By Kate Bee
Apr 26, 2016

Terry seems like a tool. A NUT tool. Because he's a nut, and a tool. I like nuts. The fleshy kind, not the climbing kind. I don't actually climb. I stumbled upon this site when googling lyrics to "Mississippi Queen" and thought this was a site to get the band back together. I figured I'd pitch in and sign whatever petition there was but instead saw that there are people from all different Whole Foods who like to get together and talk about the times they went to a state park and ran webbing across trails.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Apr 27, 2016

Is this previous post the result of mixing good whisky with good weed and then trolling late night on the internet? It has got to be the only real explanation. Ha!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 27, 2016

+1 Burt
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Apr 28, 2016

Best comment on MP?
By Tradiban
Apr 28, 2016

If it wasn't posted on MP before...IT'S A FA!!!!!!!

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