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A good route that requires some "oomph!"
Climb the next crack right of Subatomic Fingerlock for 20+ meters to a ledge with trees. The shallow and acute corner can be more exhausting than climbs graded considerably more difficult.
Continue North (back towards the road) past the big overhangs of Jack Mac and Government Cheese, onto a straight portion of the wall. Pass a short but perfect finger-crack, 10 meters tall (Subatomic Fingerlock) and continue to the next crack system.
A standard trad rack to fist-sized. The recent book states that wide gear is useful, but the top portion that is wider is not difficult.