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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]
FA: B. Bradley & P. Mayrose, ~1965.
Page Views: 1,772
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jun 18, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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P2, belayed from the comfy stance to the R of the ...

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This route is on the Left Book. It climbs the nice slab to the right of White Whale to a beautiful dihedral.

Pitch 1 - run it out 50 feet or so up a very clean 5.6 slab to the base of the dihedral.

Pitch 2 - Lieback one of the nicest 5.6 dihedrals anywhere, finger and hand sized gear. Belay at the roof.

Pitch 3 - The route is vague here. Either go right on unprotected 5.7 rock or go left on unprotected 5.8ish rock. Don't fall.

Pitch 4 - addendum: Ascend the left side of a bulbous formation with a 5.9 dihedral.


Standard rack to #3 Camalot. 1st and 3rd pitches are very runout.

Photos of Beelzebub Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P3, not too runout.  Below, climbers at the White ...
P3, not too runout. Below, climbers at the White ...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1, belayed from the uncomfy 200ft stance.  Jeff G...
P1, belayed from the uncomfy 200ft stance. Jeff G...

Comments on Beelzebub Add Comment
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By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Jul 6, 2004

Did this route on Saturday. The 2nd pitch dihedral is one of the best .6 you will ever do. It gets run-out just as it starts to bulge outward and the crack fills with grass. This route could probably be done in two long pitches. This is a great route on the left book when all the other routes are taken. This one sees less traffic b/c of its run-out nature but I think it is the best route on the Left Book.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 22, 2004

A few thoughts: This is a stiff, sustained climb at the 5.7 level, I wouldn't want to be a 5.7 leader on this. The very-stiff & minimally featured start can be protected by placing gear up the gully to the R before cluck-pointing (I did). The dihedral is amazing, takes small pro, & is longer than it looks. P2 is not going to feel reasonable to a 5.6 leader. Don't go 200ft on P1 unless you don't mind a marginal stance for a belay (red & yellow Alien + 5 & 6 Rocks). P2 is more comfortably belayed after a short traverse at the roof/overlap to a notch to the R. P3 is not as run out as described unless you don't hunt & peck. Clucking above the roof, I found placements for at least #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, large wire (in R pointing flake), yellow Alien, red Alien, orange Alien, #1.5 Camalot before the juggy finish. Maybe I didn't take the 'correct line' but it was fairly direct & 5.7. Interestingly, S. Kimball didn't give it an S in his guide but described an 'unprotected crystalline slab'. I would only give it an S for P1 if you don't cluck-point it & PG-13 for P3. 2.3 stars.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

First pitch is safe with double rope technique. Climb up the gully, place some pro and clip your right rope, climb down, get on the slab and gain the crack. Lead the rest of the pitch on your left rope.

If you want to make it spicy you can, but don't let that stop you from getting on this excellent route! (Oops, did I just let the cat out of the bag?)

The crack/didedral is excellent!!!

Above the dihedral I don't know where this route is supposed to go to be R rated, but if you just keep going straight up the wide crack it is 5.7 or less and protectable all the way to the top.

Use tools, climb safe, have fun.
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Jun 16, 2011

Go up the right gully and traverse in to the bottom of the dihedral and this is PG.

We did it in two pitches with a 60m rope. Belay in the dihedral on small wires where there is a small scoop for your butt on climber's right and a small rail for your feet on the left.

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