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Beech Cliff Bouldering

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beeched Whale 
Beeched Whale, (Left Arete). 
Hyperbole 
Kara 
Parking Lot Boulder 
Purity 
Purity (Right Variation) 
Silence is the Question 

Beech Cliff Bouldering Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.31553, -68.3438 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,410
Administrators: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: opusgrooves on Sep 8, 2016
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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Go to the Beech Cliff parking lot of Acadia National Park. In recent years, boulder development has seen a major boom in Acadia National Park! This area is no exception, as local crusher, Jonathan Hogue, of Evolv Sports, has been busy scrubbing and cleaning rocks with permission from the National Park Service in many areas including: Canada Cliffs, The Precipice, and Beech Cliff. (He's also been busy replacing bolts, so thank him if you see him out climbing and cleaning).

This area gets socked in with regards to wet-rock, thus it takes a great deal of time to dry out. It shouldn't have rained for several days before attempting to climb here, as all the rocks tend to be saturated long-term (Aside from the Parking Lot Boulder).

Please respect the natural habitat and locals-"pack in/pack out."

Until now, this was a local boulderers best kept secret and we certainly don't want thousands of climbers trampling through the area all the time.

Please respect the National Park lands, which includes removing tick marks and picking up discarded tape, etc.

Here is a short video edit featuring climbs I've repeated and established in Acadia National Park:


Thanks all, stay safe out there!

Getting There 

Beech Cliff parking lot of Acadia National Park. To get to the Beech Mountain parking area, just south of Somesville, turn west on the well-marked Pretty Marsh Road, then turn left (south) on Beech Hill Road and follow it for roughly four miles until it ends at the fairly large parking area within Acadia National Park. The Beech Mountain parking area has trailheads going in all directions so make sure that you are on the trail you intend to be on!

You'll want to head towards the back of the parking lot, which is the Northwest Corner towards the Canada Cliffs Trail-Head where you'll stay right where it splits after a half-mile or so.

Climbing Season

For the Acadia National Park area.

Weather station 8.1 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Beech Cliff Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Beech Cliff Bouldering:
Beeched Whale   V5+ 6C+ PG13     Boulder, 15'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Beech Cliff Bouldering

Featured Route For Beech Cliff Bouldering
Rock Climbing Photo: Kara (direct), V4.

Kara V4-5 6B+ PG13  Maine : Acadia National Park : Beech Cliff Bouldering
Start matched on an obvious jug under the roof. Make technical moves up the center of the boulder, V4. The alternate start on the left side and finishing in the same spot is V5....[more]   Browse More Classics in Maine

Comments on Beech Cliff Bouldering Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Day
Dec 26, 2016
Does everything need to be on Mountain Project? Climb to climb, not to spew.
By opusgrooves
Feb 12, 2017
You see that part on Guideline #1 where it says "don't be a jerk?"

I like to think my contributions are so people CAN climb in this area. Otherwise it would be hard to find boulders in Acadia, as they're sporadic. The purpose of Mountain Project is to help people enjoy the outdoors safely and efficiently, which we've accomplished gracefully. Your post is unwarranted.
By Sam Day
Apr 6, 2017
Did you consider guideline #1 when posting about an area that is one of the few where someone can get away from the crowds on this already thoroughly packed island?

I'm not being a jerk. Simply asking that you respect the fact that this island gets enough traffic as is and people should use discretion when "sharing." Are you "local hardman" Jonathan Hogue?

Boulders in Acadia are sporadic? Really? This island is covered if people pull their eyes away from MP and just walk into the woods. Locals are also quite friendly and willing to share beta if you ask them.

Respectfully,
Sam
By mmboston
Jun 14, 2017
Jonathan Hogue, just wanted to let you know your work is appreciated. Sounds like Sam Day is upset you put some of his hidden spots on Mountain Project...isn't that the whole point of MP? Aren't we all here to find out info on climbs we don't know about? I'm happy when I find a spot and some others join later and we figure out different routes/betas.

Let's go outside to enjoy nature.

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