REI Community
Bee Gorge

Select Area...
Bee Gorge North Wall 
Bee Gorge South Wall 

Bee Gorge Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.56856, 116.79013 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,131
Administrators: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on May 30, 2013
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
A look at the entrance of Bee Gorge from the dirt ...

Description 

UNDER CONSTRUCTION, ROUTES WILL APPEAR FOR THE NORTH AND SOUTH WALL SOON

In brief:

Bee Gorge is possibly the most developed, easily accessible crag in the Baihe Area. It seems to be composed of orange granite. It is the first major crag you encounter on the way into the long, complex gorge/mountain system that defines the area. It is the unmistakable, large gorge on the left side of the road early on when you enter the mountains. It has a North and South wall (developed and a west wall up the hillside that has, to my knowledge, not been developed). Although there has been significant development in the area, there remains a huge amount of route potential. The north and south walls on either side of the canyon have essentially been developed at the front of the canyon. Both walls extend further back and feature undeveloped lines that could be a combination of hard multipitch trad and Euro-style sport lines. If you are looking for an introduction to Beijing climbing, this crag is a solid start.

Oh, and did I mention this crag is also across the gorge from a section of the GREAT WALL OF CHINA?!

In other news:

Bee Gorge offers an interesting opportunity in the realm of “Greenpointing,” which involves climbing sport routes on gear only. Because climbing is so new to China, relative to the United States, the ethics surrounding bolting have not really developed to levels that were seen in the US from the 70s-early 90s. Consequently, a lot of routes that could put up on gear instead receive sport bolts. Ergo, a new challenge lies in trad climbing some of these sport routes.

To be fair, there is a logical case to be made for the large-scale bolting in China. Climbing is so new to the country, and in a place where the ideas of the middle class, disposable incomes, and climbing equipment are fairly young, there are few homegrown Chinese climbers who can and will shell out the money for all the trappings of a modern trad rack. Trad gear is also fairly hard to come by in China, and what there is generally carries a significant price tag (Sanfo (三夫), the Chinese version of REI, has pretty significant price inflation…). Essentially, there is a strong motivation for a populist approach to Chinese climbing. There is so much rock in China that has not been touched by climbers, so why limit the number of Chinese climbers who want to enjoy the sport by exorbitant pay barriers for gear? The Chinese climbing community is one that needs to grow, and arguably the best way is to get more enthusiastic, homegrown Chinese climbers out there.

All of this being said, there is nonetheless a problem with over-bolting and gym-hold bolting in some areas. Stories I have gathered from some expat climbers border on the realm of absurd, involving rampant bolts, paint, chipping, retrobolting, and bolting gym holds onto rock. However, this page is not meant to be an indictment or validation for what is occurring in China’s climbing community today. But it is an interesting and constantly changing debate that will be lively to follow as the sport matures in China.

In terms of credit for area development, a lot of the heavy lifting was shouldered by the Chinese Mountain Development Institute (CMDI) (terratribes.com)while the small handful of trad routes have been developed by some of the few homegrown Chinese trad climbers. Though the number of local trad climbers are few, hopefully these great routes will inspire other to pick up trad climbing.

NB on the Photos: All of the photos of climbing on-routes are my personal photos. However, the photos of the general cliff band on each side of the canyon are ones I discovered through the climbing community out in China, put together by “Red*Point.” While I attempted to make my own cliff topos, I took different camera angles than the ones captured by Red*Point. I do not want to put out a badly rendered or inaccurate topo, so I wanted to make sure that the quality picture editing done by Red*Point receives a broader audience. Baihe is a great climbing location with easy access from Beijing, so I hope that items like these will encourage more climbers to go discover what the area has to offer.

Getting There 

From Beijing: Take the subway 2 line to Dongzhimen station. Head up from the subway topside to the "long-distance bus station" terminal. You are looking for the 980 EXPRESS(快) bus to Miyun; do NOT take the slow/local bus unless you want to double or even triple your travel time. You are looking for the "Gulou" stop once you get to Miyun. You will notice it will be a cabstand with a bunch of vans. Hire a van to take you to Bee Gorge (most drivers will know since its a significant destination for local climbers). The more people you have, the cheaper it will be (~80-120 RMB). Bee Gorge will be the first major crag you encounter on the left side of the road. It has a fairly large dirt parking area with a concrete dividing wall next to the road.

Climbing Season

For the China area.

Weather station 31.8 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Bee Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber at the anchor for "Refined and Rati...

1: 30 and 60 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Asia : East Asia : ... : Bee Gorge South Wall
This route is a strong contender for the best route in Bee Gorge. The bottom ‘first pitch’ is a bit sandy and loose, but the splitter dihedral crack above is steep, exposed, sustained, strenuous, and glorious for the grade. This route will have you thrilled from start to finish.Pitch 1: Trend diagonally up and right following a bolt line (unnecessary as the route will take gear) until you hit ledge-y terrain. Continue directly upward to the large ledge with bolts. You can stop and belay...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Bee Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hungarian climber Marton Mihaltz climbs the North ...
Hungarian climber Marton Mihaltz climbs the North ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Twilight over some of the mountains in the area wh...
Twilight over some of the mountains in the area wh...
Rock Climbing Photo: That little box on top of the mountain? Well, it's...
That little box on top of the mountain? Well, it's...
Rock Climbing Photo: The massive unclimbed multipitch buttress on the w...
The massive unclimbed multipitch buttress on the w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the unclimbed cliffs across the road from ...
Some of the unclimbed cliffs across the road from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The entrance of Bee Gorge in the evening. The Nort...
The entrance of Bee Gorge in the evening. The Nort...

Comments on Bee Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About