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Bedouin Bedlam 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James Garrett and Res von Känel, 13 November 2006
Season: Spring and Fall probably best
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: James Garrett on Feb 4, 2015

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Description 

Find the beginning of the route at the far right side of the alcove which is reached after a 20-30 minute approach hike.

Pitch #1: Climb a groove and a straight in crack system and then jog right to easier ground and to a ledge and belay. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch #2: Initially a right facing dihedral to some face climbing (5.7) to a ledge. Traverse right to a prominent left facing dihedral. Climb it passing a fixed piton to a ledge belay. 5.10, 25m.

Pitch #3: Climb up left past featured rock to a right facing dihedral and follow the crack through a roof to a prominent ledge and we built a cairn here. 5.8, 55m.

Move left along the little ledge to a two-bolt belay and rappel station where you can descend the Sky Line Buttress.

Location 

Driving south a few miles out of Rum village drive to the towers known locally as Abu N' Khala. A massively big dihedral dissects the the larger of the towers. 50m to the right of this on the right side of an alcove is a prominent tree and the crack system that marks the beginning of the route. A Bedouin Camp is often situated in an open area below the Abu N' Khala Towers.
Rappel the Sky Line Buttress via two-bolt rap stations with two ropes.

Protection 

A full set of Nuts and Camalots ("Standard Desert Rack"). One fixed piton was left in the 5.10 left facing dihedral on Pitch #2.


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