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Routes in Vortex Tower
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Beckey Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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DNF (Direct North Face aka Does Not Finish) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Vortex, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, ? |
| Page Views: | 1,298 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Dj telle on Jan 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
1. Starts on S SW side of the formation.
First pitch goes up some low angle rock to a bolt about 35 ft up. Clip the bolt and move left to another bolt. Move up, get the nuts out and cinch em on the 3/8 inch original bolts from the FA. Bring lots of slings on this pitch as it will zig zag a bit. Belay on ledge. (.10)
2. Move belay up to another ledge about 20 ft up. There is an old anchor bolt that could be backed up.
3. Great technical pitch, the crux is short but a little spicy pulling .11 moves on ancient bolts. Climb past the bolts and run it out on low angle slab to the summit. .11
There are new rap bolts on the summit. The route can be aided but it is recommended to free the route.
2 rope rap
First pitch goes up some low angle rock to a bolt about 35 ft up. Clip the bolt and move left to another bolt. Move up, get the nuts out and cinch em on the 3/8 inch original bolts from the FA. Bring lots of slings on this pitch as it will zig zag a bit. Belay on ledge. (.10)
2. Move belay up to another ledge about 20 ft up. There is an old anchor bolt that could be backed up.
3. Great technical pitch, the crux is short but a little spicy pulling .11 moves on ancient bolts. Climb past the bolts and run it out on low angle slab to the summit. .11
There are new rap bolts on the summit. The route can be aided but it is recommended to free the route.
2 rope rap
1 Comment