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Bebop Tango 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) John Bachar, John Yablonksi & Mike Lechlinski 1979, FL: Paul Borne 1990
Page Views: 3,433
Submitted By: Scotty Nelson on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Bebop Tango. April '06. Photo: Darin Limvere.


Unusual for J-tree: a steep juggy sport climb! It is located in a shady corridor so it could be either chilly or perfect, depending on the temps.


Five bolts.

Photos of Bebop Tango Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the Tango
Me on the Tango
Rock Climbing Photo: The huecoed Solosby Face
BETA PHOTO: The huecoed Solosby Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Fearn belayed by Mark Sundeen on Bebop Tango (...
Tim Fearn belayed by Mark Sundeen on Bebop Tango (...
Rock Climbing Photo: Running laps on Bebop Tango (5.11a), Joshua Tree N...
Running laps on Bebop Tango (5.11a), Joshua Tree N...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephen Quale on Bebop Tango during a chilly Decem...
Stephen Quale on Bebop Tango during a chilly Decem...

Comments on Bebop Tango Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 19, 2017
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 14, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This climb did and should have 4 bolts. The extra bolt at the top is the result of an anchor at the lip being chopped, which is a pity as this is indeed a sport climb.
By Tim Bui
May 2, 2003

Really fun climb. Don't worry about the first bolt being so far up. I think it is only 5.6 or 5.7 up to it. The climb DOES have for bolts/hangers as of today. There are three old rusted bolts on top. One is without a hanger.
By Steven Powers
Jul 1, 2003

went out and did this yesterday, my first time out there this climb rules, there are actually only four bolts on the climb and we replaced the crappy anchors with some super bomber three eighth's and chains, when we pulled the three old bolts out two of them sheared of with three whacks from the piton and hammer and the other one when we pulled it out was bent all to hell, those were some horrible anchors, but no more now they are custom and every one should enjoy this climb, easy to top rope also.
By Randy
Jul 2, 2003

Steven: Well Done! Thanks for replacing the old anchor.

Now, if I can only find my lycra...
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 23, 2003

Regarding the approach: From the Nature Loop, walk SW towards a 50' tall overhanging orange colored boulder with a pinon pine at the base. Walk around to the right, aiming left of the "finger" on the skyline. Boulder hop up and left, towards another large boulder w/ a thin crack running through the roof. Shimmy through a cave at the base of this boulder, chimney down the other side, and you will be at the base of the overhanging and pocketed Solosby Face.

Regarding the route: Feels like Hueco Tanks in Joshua Tree! The bolts are spaced just far enough apart to keep you on your toes and it's not a bad idea to have a spot before clipping the first one. Thanks Stephen and company for replacing the old bolts!
By Adam Stackhouse
Jul 28, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I remember back in '94, when our group was hanging with a couple of Euros who were not having the greatest time with runout slabs. I told them, "I think I have something in mind for you..." Yea, they loved it. Both of them led BT and LS a few times and were having such a fine afternoon with it, they bought me all the cheap beer and cigaretts I could handle.....Personally, I TR'd them several times (BT AND LS) before yoyoing my way up. Fun times on a fun, unique routes.
By Adam Stackhouse
Dec 21, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I think Bachar did the FA on this
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The steep nature of this route makes for pumpy climbing. The start is not 5.6 or 5.7 as previously described. The start is certainly not the crux but does have your attention getting off the deck and a missed sequence is not fun. Once established in the large pockets reaching the first bolt is easy enough. If you don't like the fall factor you could bridge using the boulder behind you to clip the first bolt.

Reachy and powerful moves at the mid-way crux (bulge) as a 5'7" girl I either need more power or....more power. I hung.

In full disclosure we did the route on TR and I still hung. Even still, I feel comfortable with my grade assessment of 11a.

Conditions: Summer months - in the shade @ noon
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Oct 5, 2009

This had the first dyno I ever did on lead, from the handrail to the pocket - and amazingly I stuck it!
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jan 31, 2011

legit climb, I was a little two beat up and whiney from a few days of warm josh to fully enjoy it. The huecoy goodness at the bottom has to be some of the coolest granite sculpture around. Does anyone know any area's with similar uber huecoed varnish? even outside josh?
By G Halsne
Apr 20, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Love this climb! Visited it 2 years ago and just came back for more as it haunted my climbing dreams! ( wow im lame) Anyway.. The lower part reminds me of Rolling Blackout and Katmandu at Malibu, for the hueco seeker above.. The move from the rail to the upper pocket feels so amazingly powerful if you can stick it static... ( im over 6ft ) and the rest just gets harder after the pump. I found myself wishing the anchors were 12 inches lower... since pulling the mantle ( on lead) is pretty sketchy... But after making the move it won my respect in a big way. Interesting to read the history of the anchors after the fact. I give this a hard 11b grade anywhere else in socal... but for Josh.. I guess its just 11a ! :)
By Dustin Stephens
Mar 19, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Good climbing, but multiple opportunities for bone-crushing falls onto the boulder behind if you biff it at the wrong moment. Would not recommend to those breaking into the grade.

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