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Beavis and Butthead 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Colin Simon on Sep 3, 2011

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Description 

Pockety line just right of Sledgehammer

Protection 

bolts


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By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 26, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

One of the best climbs at the grade around. A local told me as I was coming down from the anchor that they say of the route you only get 3 dream climbs in life, and I just used up one of them. As good if not better than sledgehammer, and for me it felt easier, but most say otherwise. Very different as Sledgehammer has a crux higher up and then a harder finish, whereas this has a tougher boulder problem but a jug haul above. Do them both. The crux is down low moving left into an undercling. It then moves up and onto the right shelf/rail, up to the arete out right, then back left with a big move to a jug. Save some gas for the finish. Outstanding.

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