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Beaver Fever 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 1999
Page Views: 909
Submitted By: Elijah Flenner on Oct 6, 2001

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  • Description 

    This route is located on the Upper Wall of the Clock Tower on the left-hand side. It is the three-bolt direct start to Leave It to Beaver. Leave It to Beaver is the third climb from the left on the Upper Wall of the Clock Tower.

    Scramble up some easy rock to a ledge, then follow pockets and underclings to a left-facing dihedral/flake. Rolofson's guidebook gives the climb 12c, but this must be a misprint. The climb is closer to 11a than 12c and is not much harder than The Other One.


    6 bolts and 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on Beaver Fever Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 20, 2002

    There seems to be a dispute here to how hard this route is: 12c vs. 11a. Quite a difference. Is one person trying to sandbag or is the other person looking for an ego stroke. So, how hard does this route feel? Is it similar in difficulty to 12c's such as Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine", or Shelf Road's "Surreal Estate", or Boulder Canyon's "Gyro Captain". The first ascentionists put a grade on the route. Doesn't mean you can't disagree with them. They may even disagree with themselves if they did the route again.
    By Elijah Flenner
    Aug 21, 2002

    I believe that 11a might be a little sandbagged for sport climbing in Boulder Canyon. I have not climbed any of the routes you mentioned above, but the day I did the route, my wife and a friend also did the route. My wife, Michelle, has never climbed a 5.11c, let alone 12c. She fell once, and that was past the crux. My friend, Ryan, did not fall at all, and at the time he had to make 12a projects. We all thought this route was 5.11. I thought it was about the same grade as The Joker at Easter Rock, which I had done the week before I did Beaver Fever. As with any rating, peoples opionion will be different, and it should not be left up to one person. Maybe other people will put in thier two cents and we can get a consensus. I am not trying to sandbag, but it might come naturally.
    By Elijah Flenner
    Jan 20, 2003

    No where close to the difficulty of Gyro Captain.
    By ac
    Jul 21, 2005
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Softest graded climb I've done in BoCan. The "12c" part isn't even as hard as the upper part, which is the 11d crux of Leave it to Beaver. Decent route, nonetheless.
    By Peter Hunt
    Oct 4, 2008
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    I also don't believe the people who rated this 5.11 were on route. The first bolt on Leave it to Beaver is a bit right of the easiest line and might look like a direct start.
    By brain damage
    Jul 13, 2010
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    I think there are 2 variations to this climb. The one that goes out left is pretty easy. Then there's one that is directly under the bolts, I had to use a sloper and lay back to swing to a big jug. This was the hardest part of the climb. Hardest climbing I have done. I give it a 12a/b and 4 stars (my style of climbing).
    By Charles Cundiff
    Oct 17, 2010
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Four weeks out from hand surgery! Yeah it's no 12c, but it probably adds a letter grade to the difficulty of the route overall. 5.11d would be a good grade for this route anywhere.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 19, 2015
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Wow! I never thought I'd see the direct start be rated 5.11 or even .11d. Are you sure you were on the correct route? Leave It To Beaver has a high 1st bolt that must be climbed up to from the left, above the starting ledge. This is followed by a hand traverse right past 2nd bolt to reach a small, left-facing corner. Beaver Fever is the 3 bolt direct start just right of Leave It To Beaver & just left of Mutant Overload (the black streak). It can either be done to start Leave It To Beaver or Mutant Overload. The line Beaver Fever is the 5.12 direct start to the former, but it can be done to make the latter harder for a 12d/13a called Beaver Overload. I usually preclip the 2nd bolt to avoid a ledgefall. There is a jug hueco to start then to poor sloping small edge & a small undercling flake to match on, & then reach to a good jug pocket. At 3rd bolt, the climb moves up left into the corner. One of hardest moves on the Clock Tower with the exception of Salad Shooter. I can't always do it especially when it's warm. Perhaps it is easier for shorter climbers. To say that The Joker at Easter Rock is harder is a joke. I've warmed up on The Joker many times. It's a hard warm-up & certainly has strange, funky moves but nothing as hard as the show stopper Beaver Fever. I first tried this start in 1999. I finally did it in Fall 2001. That was a good year. I had finally redpointed Buddha Belly, then Pump Truck, to mention a couple of the nearly 100 climbs of .12a or harder I sent that year. I redpointed Beaver Overload in 2006, then did Ten Digit Dialing (.12c) in Clear Creek. In 2007, I repeated many hard routes including Ten Digit & Mutant Overload & also did the first redpoint of War On Freedom (.13a/b) at Plotinus Wall but failed to repeat Beaver Fever. To answer the Anonymous Coward, it has been a very long time since I climbed Surreal Estate at Shelf Road, but it seemed harder than any single move on that route.

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