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Lower Tokopah Dome
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Beauty and the Beast T 
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Beauty and the Beast 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 650'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c A0 [details]
FA: Daniel Jeffcoach, Vitaliy Musiyenko (April 2014)
New Route: Yes
Season: Best in Spring, Summer and Fall. Doable in winter.
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: SirTobyThe3rd on Jun 5, 2014

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Daniel following the second pitch. Beautiful face ...

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: 100 ft 5.8. This pitch is the only pitch of the route that is not that enjoyable. Climb up an obvious chimney, get on the big ledge and traverse it to the base of a bolt. You can make an anchor with your #3 and 4 cams just left, under an overhang.

Pitch 2: 145 ft 5.10b. Make a A0 move past the bolt and grab the jug left. Traverse around the arête and do some fun face climbing. 5.10b(?) crux is after the 3rd bolt, as I remember, and you have to go right of the bolt and than traverse back left when your feet are above it. Fun moves. Than easier climbing to the top. There is a little roof which is fun right below the anchor. Takes .3, .4 or a #1 (I would take all and place two that fit). About 8 bolts on the pitch as I remember.

Pitch 3: 70 ft 5.7. From the anchor traverse directly left past two bolts. Crux is the friction groove after the 2nd bolt. Belay from a giant ledge with an amazing view of Tokopah Valley.

Pitch 4. 200 ft 5.11-. On the western side of the Balcony is the prominent chimney OW that cannot be missed. Bring a single set from .4 to #6 cam, two #3s (one to protect the hand crack before the traverse into the chimney, you can put a #1 deep inside after you get into it. Save the .4 .5 or .75, not sure which would work since I didn’t have them, for pro before the last section of climbing. There are 3 bolts on this OW/chimney. Great quality rock, not flaky and no munge anywhere. Traverse over into it might be the technical crux? Tough lead, 60 meters of wide fun!

Pitch 5: 120 ft 5.8. Take the handcrack to the top and get out right onto the slab. Climb past the bolt and do the final stretch of smearing before you get on terra firma.

Location 

To approach it stay low below the dome and traverse the hillside till you are past thick looking brush and are on eastern side of the dome. Start of the route is east of the giant roof in the middle of the South Face. It starts from a few big ledges up a short chimney.
Get down by descending from the back. You can get down by either walking off to the east or to the west of the dome. West option is quicker if you already have all your things with you. If you left something at the base, it would be easier to walk off from the east.

Protection 

Single set of cams from small to #6 BD Camalot. #5 is not required.
Doubles in Camalots #0.5, 0.75, and #3 is helpful to protect the OW.
#1 and 0.4 can be used to protect a small bulge on pitch 2.


Photos of Beauty and the Beast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Vitaliy battling the beast
Vitaliy battling the beast
Rock Climbing Photo: traverse on pitch 3
traverse on pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: OW pitch is the crux of the route
OW pitch is the crux of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse to Balcony Ledge
The traverse to Balcony Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crux of the route. 60m OW AKA The Beast :)
The Crux of the route. 60m OW AKA The Beast :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the route. The crux OW can be seen a...
Looking up at the route. The crux OW can be seen a...

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