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Beauty and the Beast 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Petro/Gnade
Page Views: 1,847
Submitted By: e Dixon on Apr 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Start with about 10 feet of face climbing to get to a tight, right-facing corner in great looking dark rock.


Located on the right side of the wall. It is the next route to the right of Double Trouble.


#.3 - #.5 Camalots.

Photos of Beauty and the Beast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: a wiper ... soft
a wiper ... soft
Rock Climbing Photo: good fun
good fun

Comments on Beauty and the Beast Add Comment
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 1, 2008

The vague gear description makes me think the poster of this route has not actually been on the route. Just did this route today. Seemed pretty reasonable for the grade, but my fingers fit well. Big fingers would make this route real tough. For me, an ideal rack would include 3 blue metolius/green alien, 6 yellow metolius, 1-2 #0.5 Camelot. Nothing larger will fit. Keep you eyes out on both sides of the crack for stems. High quality rock but short. 3 out of 5 stars.
By Jason S.
From: Durango, Co
Aug 31, 2011

I agree, in camalots: maybe one .5, lots of .4's and a .3 or two for the top will make you feel nice. Also maybe one thinner piece for the start. Great route, especially if your fingers are a little small for good locks on Flight Time. Also the anchors could use a couple chains, the webbing nest up there is a little scary.
By slim
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

great little route with ultra-sticky fingers. bloom's latest recommends (7) .4 camalots and (2) .3 camalots. i actually used more .3's than .4's - maybe (6) .3 and (4) .4 or so. this would be a good first 12 at the creek - not too long, fairly straight forward, lots of fun.
By khoa
From: Tacomarado
Apr 12, 2016

fa: Petro/Gnade
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 14, 2016

Could be a lil harder if you place as much gear as is talked about above..

2 green alien, 3x.3, 3x.4, 1 Grey alien.

9 Pieces in 60' for an OS...Still kinda heavy

And the name is

BEAUTY IN THE BEAST!!! not Beauty and the beast
By Raddam6
Apr 29, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I would bring 5 0.3 camalots, 3 0.4 camalots and 1 0.5. Finger size dependent. If you had 0.3 size fingers it might feel 5.11 but for the last 20 feet I was forced into a power tips layback with 1/2 pad and it felt desperate. Didn't send.

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