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Beauty & Biest 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bjorn & Nontawan Alber
Page Views: 1,236
Submitted By: Zac Duvernet on Mar 31, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Finishing the route up.

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is a very reachy move from the wall onto a hanging tuffa. You must face the tuffa with your hand out and fall towards it. BIG stretch with one foot and there are good holds from there. Well protected, but mentally sketchy!

Location 

Right side of Tonsai Roof Wall. In between Second Home TonSai and Stalagasaurus.

Protection 

8 bolts, 2 slings, Ring anchor


Photos of Beauty & Biest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wade Plafcan making the infamous "leap of fai...
Wade Plafcan making the infamous "leap of fai...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the Crux!
On the Crux!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pic of Zac stretching to make the crux. This is mu...
Pic of Zac stretching to make the crux. This is mu...

Comments on Beauty & Biest Add Comment
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By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Mar 26, 2014

Super soft for the grade and well protected. This is more a one move wonder, but that one move is one heck of a mental hairball move! However if your over 5'11 with a good wingspan you will have no problem with the daring crux "leap of faith" move to the overhanging stalactite near the beginning of the route. After you jump, stretch or fall onto the stalactite its smooth sailing to the top. A classic and must do for any Tonsai visitor.
By Abe Phyle
From: Portland
Nov 29, 2014

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