REI Community
Sugarloaf's Stepchild
Select Route:
Beautiful Loser T 

Beautiful Loser 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: May & June 1978
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Jun 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Beautiful Loser: Paul Seibert on the first pitch ...

Description 

P1: climb the steep finger crack to a rest and then climb a lower angle crack, still difficult, to the bolted belay. Each section of the pitch contains a crux section (5.10).

P2: climb straight up a hand sized crack above the belay. Continue via the path of least resistance and traverse right to a second set of bolts.

Location 

The route is left and below the north face of Sugarloaf on the small west facing cliff band. Look for a beautiful finger crack. This is the start of the climb (there was a dead tree lying somewhat horizontal at the bottom). Rap the route, ca. 150 feet.

Protection 

Standard Organ trad rack. There is one or two fixed pins on the first pitch. The top of each pitch has two anchor bolts.


Comments on Beautiful Loser Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Jun 18, 2012

The anchor bolts are about 30 years old. Take a bolt kit and add a 3/8" stainless bolt. Also, take two ropes until someone confirms the length of the raps.

It is easier and faster when you fall...

Lastly, the was a log at the beginning of the first pitch which allowed access to the finger crack. If the log is gone there may be difficult moves to the start of the crack.
By Karl Kiser
Jun 19, 2012

A number of persons worked on the FA. I expect Mark Motes did the first complete ascent.

P1: Mark Gillis, Mark Motes, Karl Kiser and Gary Gramlich.

P2: Mark Motes, Garth Magee, Karl Kiser, Reed Cundiff and Gary Gramlich.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About